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Bogotá's three-potato chicken soup, thickened by the criolla dissolving into the broth and scented with guascas, served with capers and cream
Origin: Bogotá & the Sabana de Bogotá
From the journey of Potato.
Ajiaco is a chicken and potato soup, and the whole of its technique is that it uses three different potatoes for three different purposes. Papa criolla, the small yellow Andean potato, dissolves completely and thickens the broth to a golden opacity; papa pastusa holds partly and gives body; papa sabanera stays in firm pieces you can eat. Substituting one potato for all three gives a soup that is either thin or a purée, and Bogotanos will tell you so. The herb is guascas, Galinsoga parviflora, a plant most of the world regards as a garden weed and which grows wild across the Sabana de Bogotá. It has a faint artichoke and hay smell, it is used in no other dish of consequence anywhere, and without it the soup is chicken and potatoes. It is sold dried in Colombian shops and dried works perfectly well. The accompaniments arrive separately and are stirred in at the table: capers, thick cream, and a wedge of avocado, with an ear of corn sitting in the bowl. The combination of capers and cream in an Andean soup is unexpected and is entirely standard. The soup is associated with Bogotá specifically rather than with Colombia generally. Elsewhere in Latin America ajiaco means something else again, a Cuban root-vegetable stew in one place and a Peruvian potato dish in another; the word travels but the recipe does not.
Three potatoes doing three jobs is the recipe, and the papa criolla is the one that cannot be skipped; frozen papa criolla is sold by Colombian grocers and works. Guascas is the other non-negotiable and is sold dried. Break the criolla into the broth deliberately rather than waiting for it to happen. Add the guascas in two goes. Capers and cream are stirred in by the eater rather than by the cook, and the amount is a matter of taste that people are firm about.
To explore — select an ingredient below.
To explore — select an ingredient below · click any location dot on the map for recipes and stories · browse the information panel on the right · trace the full journey on the timeline.
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