Agua de Tamarindo

the dark, sweet-sour agua fresca of the Mexican taquería: tamarind pods simmered and strained, sweetened and let down with cold water, poured over ice from the great glass vitrolero

Origin: Mexico

From the journey of Tamarind.

The aguas frescas, the 'fresh waters' of Mexico, are the everyday soft drinks of the country: fruit, flowers, seeds, or grains blended or steeped with water and a little sugar and served cold over ice, poured from the great barrel-shaped glass jars called vitroleros that stand on every market stall and taquería counter. Of the classic trio, the ruby jamaica of hibiscus, the milky white horchata of rice, and the deep brown tamarindo, the last is the sourest and, to many, the most refreshing. The tamarind reached Mexico across the Pacific on the Manila galleon, the trade that for two and a half centuries carried the plants and foods of Asia into New Spain, and it took root so completely that tamarindo is now among the most characteristic flavours in the country. The drink could hardly be simpler: the pods are peeled and simmered until the pulp loosens from the seeds, the liquid is strained and sweetened, and it is diluted and chilled. What makes it is the balance, for the tamarind's deep, rounded, tartaric sourness needs a firm hand with the sugar to answer it, and the result should be brisk and mouth-watering rather than sweet. Beside a plate of tacos, its acidity cuts the fat and the chilli exactly as it should.

Ingredients

Agua

  • 250 g tamarind pods (about 15), or 150 g block tamarind
  • 1 litre water, for simmering
  • 1 litre cold water, to dilute
  • 150 g sugar, or to taste
  • 1 pinch salt

To Serve

  • 1 tray ice cubes, to serve

Method

  1. Crack and peel the brittle shells from the tamarind pods and pull away as much of the coarse stringy fibre as you can, leaving the sticky pulp and seeds. (If using block tamarind, simply break it up.)
  2. Put the pulp in a pan with the litre of water, bring to the boil, then simmer for 15 to 20 minutes, mashing occasionally with a spoon, until the pulp has softened and separated from the seeds and the water is dark brown.
  3. Cool a little, then pour through a sieve into a jug, pressing the softened pulp hard with the back of a spoon to push through everything but the seeds and fibre. Discard the debris.
  4. Stir the sugar and the pinch of salt into the warm concentrate until dissolved, then add the litre of cold water. Taste and adjust with more water or sugar; it should be tart and lively, not syrupy.
  5. Chill thoroughly and serve over plenty of ice, stirring the jug before pouring as the drink settles.

Notes

Strength and sweetness are entirely a matter of taste; street vendors tend to make it sweeter than most home cooks. The concentrate can be made strong and kept in the refrigerator to be let down with water glass by glass. Beyond the plain agua, the same base makes tamarind paletas (ice lollies), is mixed with mineral water for a sparkling version, and is the foundation of the tamarindo michelada and of a good many modern Mexican cocktails, where it stands in beautifully for lime.

The Gastrographer

The Gastrographer

Mapping Culinary History

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Journey Point Map Key

Ingredient originTrade or transit route
Became a culinary stapleColonial / trade control
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