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soft steamed cakes of fermented maize and rice, faintly sweet and sour at once, torn and eaten with fried fish or a peppery sauce
Origin: Lomé, Aného & southern Togo
From the journey of Corn.
Ablo is the gentlest thing in the Togolese and Beninese repertoire: a pale, spongy, faintly sweet steamed cake made from fermented maize and rice flour, torn apart with the fingers and eaten with fried fish, grilled chicken, or a fierce tomato and chilli sauce. Set against the dense sour swallows of the same coast, akumè and akassa, it is almost a cake, and it is sold from covered basins by women who make nothing else. The two flours do different jobs, which is why both are there. Maize supplies the flavour and the colour; rice flour gives the light, open, faintly springy crumb that a pure maize batter cannot produce. A little sugar goes in, which is unusual on this coast and is the reason ablo reads as a snack rather than a staple. It belongs to the Ewe and Mina peoples of the coastal strip running from Aného through Lomé into Benin, and both countries make it identically. The border there was drawn by Germany and France between 1885 and 1919 and it runs through the middle of a single language and a single kitchen. The steaming is done in a wide covered pot over water, traditionally with the batter poured into leaf-lined moulds, and the cakes are turned out white, domed, and slightly glossy.
Getting the batter thickness right decides everything: too thick and the cakes are dense, too thin and they will not hold a dome. Aim for a slow ribbon. Yeast is the practical route and is what most cooks now use; a naturally fermented maize batter left for two days gives a sourer and more traditional result. Lifting the lid early collapses them. Ablo is at its best within a few hours and is steamed again rather than microwaved.
To explore — select an ingredient below.
To explore — select an ingredient below · click any location dot on the map for recipes and stories · browse the information panel on the right · trace the full journey on the timeline.
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