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China's canonical fried rice: cold day-old rice tossed in a searingly hot wok with egg, char siu pork, prawns, spring onion and peas: a dish so precisely defined that the city of Yangzhou has registered it as an intangible cultural heritage
Origin: Yangzhou, Jiangsu Province, China
From the journey of Rice.
Yangzhou fried rice (Yángzhōu chǎofàn, 揚州炒飯) is China's most famous fried rice: a dish so standardised that in 2002 the Chinese Cuisine Association published an official recipe. It originated in Yangzhou, a prosperous Sui Dynasty canal city (581–618 CE) that was once one of China's wealthiest trading hubs, and the dish was likely developed in the great private kitchens of Yangzhou's salt merchants. The defining characteristic is specificity: char siu pork (or ham), prawns, scrambled egg, spring onion, peas and carrot: each ingredient cut to a uniform small dice, the egg half-scrambled directly in the wok around the rice. What separates great fried rice from mediocre is the wok hei: the 'breath of the wok', the complex smoky, slightly charred aroma produced only by very high heat and a well-seasoned wok. Day-old refrigerated rice is mandatory: freshly cooked rice is too moist and produces a sticky, clumped result.
Wok hei, literally 'breath of the wok', is the elusive smoky, slightly caramelised complexity that defines great Chinese wok cooking. It is produced by the Maillard reaction occurring at extreme heat, by the partial combustion of oil volatilised up the wok's sides, and by the rapid evaporation of moisture. Domestic stoves rarely achieve the BTU output of a restaurant wok burner (which burns at 150,000–200,000 BTU versus a domestic hob's 10,000–15,000 BTU), but you can approximate it by: pre-heating the wok until it smokes, cooking in small batches so moisture doesn't build up, and keeping everything moving.
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