Watalappan

The ceremonial steamed custard of Ceylon

Origin: Sri Lanka

From the journey of Cinnamon.

Watalappan is Sri Lanka's most beloved celebration dessert: a silky Malay-influenced steamed custard made with coconut milk and kithul jaggery (palm treacle), perfumed with cinnamon, cardamom and a whisper of nutmeg. Originally introduced by Malay traders and soldiers during the Dutch colonial period, it has been absorbed so completely into Sri Lankan culture that it is now central to Eid celebrations and festive tables across the island. The scent of cinnamon in watalappan is so specific and evocative that it is considered the smell of celebration in Sri Lankan households.

Ingredients

Custard Base

  • 400 ml coconut milk
  • 4 eggs
  • 150 g kithul jaggery or dark palm sugar, roughly chopped

Spices

  • 1 tsp ground cinnamon
  • 0.5 tsp ground cardamom
  • 0.25 tsp ground nutmeg
  • 0.125 tsp ground cloves
  • 1 tsp vanilla extract

Garnish

  • 30 g cashews, to garnish

Method

  1. Combine the chopped jaggery and coconut milk in a small saucepan over low heat. Stir gently until the jaggery has completely dissolved. Remove from heat and allow to cool until just warm: not hot.
  2. In a large mixing bowl, whisk the eggs together until lightly beaten and combined.
  3. Add the ground cinnamon, cardamom, nutmeg, cloves and vanilla extract to the cooled coconut milk mixture and stir to combine.
  4. Slowly pour the spiced coconut milk into the beaten eggs, whisking gently as you pour. Do not whisk vigorously: you want to avoid creating too many air bubbles.
  5. Strain the mixture through a fine-mesh sieve into a jug to remove any lumps or fibres. Skim off any surface foam.
  6. Pour the strained custard into 6 individual ramekins or a single medium-sized heatproof bowl. Cover each with foil.
  7. Set up a steamer. Place the ramekins in the steamer basket and steam over medium-low heat for 20-25 minutes, until the custard is just set with a slight wobble in the centre.
  8. Remove from the steamer and allow to cool to room temperature, then refrigerate for at least 2 hours until fully set and chilled.
  9. Garnish with whole or halved cashews before serving. Serve cold or at room temperature.

Notes

Watalappan can be made up to 2 days ahead and kept refrigerated. The flavour deepens overnight. Kithul jaggery can be found in Sri Lankan and South Asian grocery stores; dark palm sugar or coconut sugar are good substitutes.

The Gastrographer

The Gastrographer

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Ingredient originTrade or transit route
Became a culinary stapleColonial / trade control
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