Thai green curry is one of the world's great dishes, and the green is coriander. Thai cooks use the coriander root (which Western cooks routinely discard) as the primary aromatic base of the paste alongside fresh green chillies, lemongrass, galangal, kaffir lime, and shrimp paste. The root has a deeper, earthier, more concentrated flavour than the leaves, and is considered a distinct ingredient in Thai cooking. A single green curry paste may contain 12–15 fresh ingredients, all traditionally ground by hand in a granite mortar, the physical breaking of cell walls releases different aromatic oils than a blender can achieve. The paste is fried in the thick, separated fat of coconut cream until profoundly fragrant, then simmered with chicken or fish or vegetables and the thinner coconut milk. Fresh coriander leaves appear again as a garnish, completing the plant's journey from root to leaf across the entire dish. Gaeng Keow Wan (literally 'sweet green curry') has become one of the most recognised and replicated dishes in international cuisine, yet the scratch-made paste version bears little resemblance to the mild, homogenised versions common abroad.
Ingredients
green curry paste
6 whole fresh green bird's eye chillies (or 4 larger green chillies for less heat), roughly chopped
4 whole coriander roots (scraped clean) with the lowest 5cm of stems, from 1 large bunch of coriander
3 cm fresh galangal (or ginger as a substitute), peeled and roughly chopped
4 cloves garlic, peeled
3 whole shallots, roughly chopped
4 leaves kaffir lime leaves, stems removed, leaves roughly torn
1 tsp kaffir lime zest (or regular lime zest)
1 tsp ground coriander seed
0.5 tsp ground cumin
1 tsp shrimp paste (kapi), omit for vegetarian
0.5 tsp fine sea salt
1 tbsp neutral oil (if using a blender)
curry
400 ml full-fat coconut milk (1 can), do not shake; the thick cream will be on top
400 ml full-fat coconut milk (1 additional can)
600 g boneless skinless chicken thighs, sliced into bite-sized pieces
150 g Thai aubergine (small round green variety) or regular aubergine cut into 3cm chunks
2 tbsp fish sauce (nam pla), or to taste
1 tsp palm sugar or light brown sugar
6 leaves kaffir lime leaves, torn in half (central stem removed)
1 large handful Thai basil leaves (horapa), added at the end
to serve
1 large handful fresh coriander leaves, for garnish
2 whole red bird's eye chillies, thinly sliced, for garnish
4 portions steamed jasmine rice
Method
Make the paste: if using a granite mortar and pestle (the traditional method), begin with the hardest ingredients. Pound the lemongrass, galangal, and chillies to a rough paste, then add the coriander roots and stems and pound until broken down. Add the shallots, garlic, kaffir lime leaves and zest, and continue pounding. Finally add the shrimp paste, ground coriander, ground cumin, and salt. Pound to as smooth a paste as you can: 15–20 minutes of active work.
If using a blender or food processor: combine all paste ingredients with the tablespoon of oil and blend to a smooth paste, scraping down the sides frequently. Add a splash more oil or a tablespoon of water if needed to get the blades moving.
Open the first can of coconut milk without shaking it. Scoop the thick, solid cream from the top (roughly half the can) into a wok or large, deep frying pan. Discard nothing: add the thinner liquid to the second full can and set aside.
Place the wok over medium-high heat. Bring the coconut cream to a vigorous simmer, stirring often. Continue cooking, stirring, until the cream splits and you can see clear coconut oil pooling with white solids: about 5–8 minutes. The cream will look broken and slightly oily. This is correct.
Add all of the green curry paste to the cracked coconut cream. Fry, stirring constantly, for 3–5 minutes until the paste is very fragrant and darkened slightly in colour. The raw harshness of the garlic and shallots should be cooked out.
Add the sliced chicken to the wok. Stir to coat every piece in the paste and cook for 2 minutes until the outside of the chicken turns opaque.
Pour in the remaining coconut milk (the thin liquid from the first can plus the full second can). Add the kaffir lime leaves, aubergine, fish sauce, and palm sugar. Stir well and bring to a gentle simmer.
Simmer over medium-low heat for 12–15 minutes until the chicken is cooked through and the aubergine is tender. Taste and adjust seasoning: more fish sauce for salt, more sugar if needed, more lime juice for brightness.
Remove from heat. Stir in the Thai basil leaves: they will wilt immediately in the residual heat. Ladle into bowls over jasmine rice. Garnish generously with fresh coriander leaves and sliced red chilli.
Notes
Store-bought green curry paste shortcut: use 2–3 tablespoons of a good-quality Thai brand (Mae Ploy or Maesri are widely considered the best commercial options). Fry in coconut cream as described (the frying step is non-negotiable even with store-bought paste. The scratch-made paste in this recipe produces a significantly more fragrant, complex result. Coriander roots: buy bunches of coriander with roots intact from Asian supermarkets. If unavailable, use the lower, thicker stems) the flavour will be slightly less intense. Vegetarian version: substitute fish sauce with light soy sauce or vegetarian fish sauce, and omit shrimp paste or replace with a teaspoon of soy-based fermented bean paste. Leftovers keep refrigerated for 3 days. The curry typically thickens and deepens in flavour overnight.
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