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Provençal zucchini tart with Gruyère and herbes de Provence
Origin: Provence, French Republic
From the journey of Zucchini.
The tarte aux courgettes is a perfect expression of how Provençal cooking domesticates the bounty of the summer garden into something elegant and composed. Provence's tradition of vegetable tarts, le tian, the clafoutis of vegetables, the tarte de légumes, reflects a culinary culture that regards vegetables not as accompaniments but as subjects worthy of the same attention given to meat or fish. The courgette (as the zucchini is known throughout France and Britain, from the diminutive of courge, gourd) is the emblem of the Provençal summer: it grows prolifically in the garrigues garden, arrives at every market stall from July onwards, and appears in dozens of preparations from ratatouille to soupe au pistou. The tarte translates this abundance into a format suitable for a midday lunch at a stone table in the shade of a plane tree: a shortcrust pastry base, the courgettes sliced thin and arranged in concentric overlapping rounds (their alternating dark-green skin and pale interior creating a decorative spiral that is also practical) a filling of eggs, cream, Gruyère, and herbes de Provence that sets around the vegetables into a silky, golden custard. The result is simultaneously rustic and refined: peasant vegetables in a form that any Parisian would be proud to serve. This is exactly the transformation that characterises the best Provençal cooking: the elevation of simple, seasonal ingredients through technique and attention into food that transcends its modest origins.
For the most decorative result, use a mixture of green and yellow courgettes, alternating them in the spiral. Herbes de Provence typically contains thyme, rosemary, marjoram, and lavender; the lavender is what makes it distinctively Provençal and slightly floral. If unavailable, substitute a blend of dried thyme and rosemary. This tart travels well and is ideal for picnics.
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