Tarte au citron

France's sharp lemon tart: a silken curd in a buttery shell, uncompromising in its acidity

Origin: France

From the journey of Lemon.

Tarte au citron is one of the great achievements of French patisserie: a tart of almost severe simplicity that demands quality at every stage: good butter for the pastry, good lemons for the curd, and the technical discipline to bring them together without over-baking. The lemon tart as known today is a 20th century codification, but its roots are in the much older French tradition of lemon curd preparations and citrus tarts that appeared in French pastry literature from the 18th century onward. France's relationship with the lemon is mediated largely through the south; through Provence, through the Côte d'Azur, and particularly through Menton, the small city on the Franco-Italian border that hosts the world's largest lemon festival (the Fête du Citron) and grows a celebrated local variety, the Citron de Menton, now protected by IGP designation. The Menton lemon is large, almost sweet, with a thick, perfumed peel and a juice of unusual balance; it has been the prestige lemon of French cuisine since the 19th century. The tarte au citron in its modern form: a crisp, blind-baked short pastry shell filled with a barely-set lemon curd and served at room temperature; became a signature of French bistro and brasserie menus in the mid-20th century, and is now one of the most ordered desserts in French restaurants worldwide. The key to its perfection lies in two things: the ratio of lemon to sweetness (it should be more tart than sweet, never cloying), and the texture of the filling (it should be just barely set; still trembling at the centre when removed from the oven, setting to a smooth, dense, creamy consistency as it cools). The version without meringue is the classic French approach; pure, unadorned, intensely lemony. The meringue-topped version (tarte au citron meringuée) is more of a family-style dessert; the plain tarte au citron is what is served in the serious patisseries of Paris, Lyon, and Bordeaux.

Ingredients

Pâte Sucrée

  • 200 g plain flour
  • 100 g unsalted butter, cold, cut into cubes
  • 80 g icing sugar, sifted
  • 1 large egg yolk
  • 2 tbsp ice cold water
  • pinch fine salt

Lemon Curd Filling

  • 4 large unwaxed lemons, zest of all four, juice of all four (approximately 160ml)
  • 200 g caster sugar
  • 4 large eggs
  • 2 large egg yolks (in addition to the whole eggs)
  • 150 ml double cream

To Serve

  • icing sugar, for dusting (optional)

Method

  1. Make the pâte sucrée: rub the cold butter into the flour and salt until the mixture resembles fine breadcrumbs. Add the icing sugar. Mix in the egg yolk and ice water; work quickly until the dough just comes together. Do not overwork. Flatten into a disc, wrap, and refrigerate for 1 hour minimum.
  2. Roll the chilled pastry on a lightly floured surface to 3mm thickness. Line a 23cm tart tin with a removable base. Press the pastry carefully into the edges, leaving a slight overhang. Prick the base all over with a fork. Refrigerate for 30 minutes.
  3. Preheat the oven to 180°C (160°C fan). Line the pastry case with baking parchment and fill with baking beans or rice. Blind bake for 20 minutes, then remove the beans and paper and bake for a further 8–10 minutes until the base is pale golden and completely dry. Trim any overhanging pastry. Reduce oven to 140°C (120°C fan).
  4. Make the lemon filling: whisk together the eggs, egg yolks, and caster sugar until just combined (no need for aeration). Add the lemon juice, lemon zest, and double cream. Whisk to combine.
  5. Strain the filling through a fine sieve into a jug to remove the zest and any egg threads. Pour into the baked pastry case, filling it right to the top.
  6. Bake at 140°C for 22–28 minutes. The tart is done when the edges are set but the centre still has a distinct wobble; like a just-set panna cotta. It will continue to firm as it cools.
  7. Cool completely at room temperature, then refrigerate for at least 1 hour before serving. Serve at room temperature (remove from refrigerator 30 minutes before serving). Dust with a light veil of icing sugar if desired.

Notes

Tarte au citron keeps well refrigerated for 2–3 days, though the pastry gradually softens. For the best result, eat on the day of making. The filling can be made in advance and refrigerated for up to 24 hours before baking. For a slightly richer, more custardy filling, replace the double cream with crème fraîche. The classic Parisian patisserie version uses a thicker filling with more butter; stir 50g cold unsalted butter into the hot filling after straining, then allow to cool before pouring into the shell.

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