Tamales are among the oldest prepared foods in the Americas (archaeological evidence of tamale production in Mesoamerica dates to at least 8,000–9,000 BCE, predating even the full domestication of maize. They were sacred food in Aztec and Maya civilisations: offered to the gods, eaten at every major festival, and described in detail in the Aztec codices. Aztec tamale fillings included beans, squash, turkey, chilli, and even frogs and insect larvae. The bean-filled tamal is the most ancient of all) beans (Phaseolus vulgaris) were domesticated in Mesoamerica alongside maize and squash as the Three Sisters, and their combination in a masa (nixtamalised maize dough) parcel is a direct culinary expression of that agricultural trinity. Tamales are labour-intensive by design: traditionally made communally by women (tamaleras) for celebrations, market days, and religious feasts. To share in tamale-making is to participate in one of the most ancient and continuous culinary traditions in human history. The black bean and chilli filling remains the simplest and most archetypal, almost identical in spirit to what a Aztec cook would have prepared three thousand years ago.
Ingredients
Wrapper
16 dried corn husks, soaked in warm water for at least 1 hour until pliable
Dough
500 g masa harina (nixtamalised corn flour, such as Maseca), or fresh masa if available
120 g lard or vegetable shortening (or refined coconut oil for vegan)
1 tsp salt
1 tsp baking powder
400 ml warm chicken or vegetable stock (or water)
Filling
400 g cooked black beans, drained (reserve some liquid)
2 tbsp vegetable oil
0.5 small white onion, finely diced
3 garlic cloves, minced
2 dried ancho or guajillo chillies, toasted, soaked, and blended (or 2 tbsp chipotle paste)
1 tsp ground cumin
0.5 tsp salt, or to taste
Method
Soak the corn husks: place them in a large bowl or sink filled with warm water. Weigh them down with a plate. Soak for at least 1 hour until they are soft, pliable, and easy to fold without cracking. Pat dry before using.
Make the bean filling: heat the oil in a frying pan over medium heat. Cook the onion for 6 minutes until soft. Add the garlic, cumin, and blended chilli paste. Cook for 2 minutes. Add the beans and roughly mash about half of them, leaving the rest whole. Season with salt. The filling should be thick and cohesive, not watery. Set aside to cool.
Make the masa dough: beat the lard or shortening with a hand mixer (or by hand) until fluffy and pale (about 3 minutes. In a separate bowl, combine the masa harina, salt, and baking powder. Add the masa mixture to the fat in two additions, alternating with the warm stock, beating between each addition. Beat the final dough for 5 minutes until it is light and smooth. Test: drop a small ball into a glass of water) if it floats, the dough is aerated enough.
Assemble the tamales: lay a corn husk flat, wider end toward you. Spread about 3 tablespoons of masa dough in the centre, forming a rough rectangle about 10 × 8 cm and 5mm thick, leaving a 3cm border on the sides and bottom, and a larger border at the top.
Spoon 1–2 tablespoons of the bean filling down the centre of the masa rectangle. Fold one long side of the husk over the filling so the masa edges seal around it, then fold the other side over. Fold the empty pointed end of the husk up and under to close the bottom. Arrange standing upright, open end up, in a steamer basket.
Steam the tamales: fill a large pot with 5–6cm of water and bring to a boil. Place the steamer basket over the water (the tamales should not touch the water). Cover tightly and steam for 70–75 minutes, checking the water level every 20 minutes and adding more if needed.
Remove from the steamer and allow to rest for 5–10 minutes before serving: the masa continues to firm up off the heat. Serve in the husk and let each person unwrap their own.
Notes
Tamales freeze exceptionally well: once fully cooled, wrap individually in cling film and freeze for up to 3 months. Reheat from frozen by steaming for 20–25 minutes. Bean-filled tamales are naturally vegan when made with vegetable shortening or coconut oil and vegetable stock. For a richer, more traditional filling, add a spoonful of crumbled queso fresco or a strip of roasted poblano to each tamal before folding.
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