Tamales

Mexican masa parcels steamed in corn husks: one of the oldest foods in the Americas, filled here with roasted poblano strips and melted cheese, made for feasts, celebrations, and the hands of everyone in the kitchen

Origin: Mexico and Mesoamerica

From the journey of Corn.

Tamales are among the oldest prepared foods in the Americas, with archaeological evidence of their preparation dating back at least 8,000 years in Mesoamerica. The Aztec word 'tamalli' means 'unformed corn dough', and the tamale served as the portable food of warriors, travellers, and pilgrims; wrapped in its own husk, it could be carried and eaten without utensils across days of travel. The Aztec codices document hundreds of tamale varieties prepared for different rituals, seasons, and deities. Making tamales is inherently communal: a tamalada, the collective tamale-making session, is one of the great social events of Mexican family life, particularly at Christmas and Día de los Muertos. The masa (nixtamalised corn dough) is spread, filled, wrapped, and steamed in assembly-line fashion by grandmothers, mothers, children, and neighbours working together for hours. The filling here, rajas con queso (roasted poblano strips with melted cheese), is one of the most beloved vegetarian versions, fragrant with the char of the pepper and the richness of the cheese.

Ingredients

Masa

500 g masa harina (nixtamalised corn flour, e.g. Maseca)
400 ml warm chicken or vegetable stock
150 g lard or vegetable shortening, softened
1.5 tsp fine salt
1 tsp baking powder

Filling

4 large poblano peppers (or green bell peppers)
300 g Oaxacan string cheese or mozzarella, torn into strips
1 medium white onion, thinly sliced
2 tbsp vegetable oil

Wrapping

30 large dried corn husks, soaked in hot water for 30 minutes

Method

Soak the corn husks in a large bowl of hot water for at least 30 minutes until pliable. Weigh them down with a plate to keep submerged.
Char the poblano peppers directly over a gas flame or under a hot grill, turning until blackened all over. Place in a covered bowl for 10 minutes. Peel off the charred skin, remove seeds and stems, and cut into 1cm-wide strips (rajas). Heat oil and sauté the onion for 8 minutes until soft. Add the rajas, season, and set aside to cool.
Beat the lard or shortening with an electric mixer or by hand for 3–4 minutes until light and fluffy. In a separate bowl, mix masa harina, salt, and baking powder. Gradually add the warm stock while mixing until a soft, pliable dough forms; like thick peanut butter. Beat the dough into the whipped fat until fully combined and smooth.
Drain the corn husks and pat dry. Take one husk and spread about 3 tablespoons of masa onto the centre third of the husk, leaving a 3cm border at the top and sides. Place a few rajas and a strip of cheese in the centre of the masa.
Fold one long side of the husk over the filling, then the other side over that. Fold the empty bottom flap up. Stand the tamale upright, open end up. Repeat with remaining husks and filling.
Stand the tamales upright, open end up, packed tightly together in a steamer basket. Steam over boiling water for 75–90 minutes, adding more boiling water as needed. The tamale is done when the masa pulls cleanly away from the husk.
Let rest for 5 minutes before serving. Unwrap at the table. Serve with salsa verde, crema, or simply as they are.

Notes

Tamales freeze exceptionally well; steam them fully, cool completely, then freeze in their husks. Reheat by steaming for 15 minutes from frozen. The filling possibilities are endless: chicken in red mole, black beans and cheese, shredded pork in salsa roja, sweet tamales with raisins and cinnamon. The technique is the same; only the filling changes. Making tamales alone is possible but slow: the tamalada tradition exists for good reason.

The Gastrographer

Name: Tamales
Prep time: 1 h
Cook time: 1 h 20 min
Total time: 2 h 20 min
Yield: 6
Cuisine: Mexico and Mesoamerica
Ingredients: 500 g masa harina (nixtamalised corn flour, e.g. Maseca); 400 ml warm chicken or vegetable stock; 150 g lard or vegetable shortening, softened; 1.5 tsp fine salt; 1 tsp baking powder; 4 large poblano peppers (or green bell peppers); 300 g Oaxacan string cheese or mozzarella, torn into strips; 1 medium white onion, thinly sliced; 2 tbsp vegetable oil; 30 large dried corn husks, soaked in hot water for 30 minutes

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Journey Point Map Key

Ingredient originTrade or transit route

Became a culinary stapleColonial / trade control