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The Dutch winter table: potatoes mashed with kale or sauerkraut, finished with a generous grating of nutmeg, the spice that the VOC killed thousands to control
Origin: Netherlands
From the journey of Nutmeg/Mace.
Stamppot is the emblematic dish of Dutch winter cooking: a sturdy, filling mash of potatoes combined with a cooked vegetable, finished with butter, milk, and the ingredient that defines all Dutch savoury cooking: freshly grated nutmeg. The dish is inseparable from Dutch history. After the Dutch VOC massacred the Bandanese population in 1621 to enforce its nutmeg monopoly, the spice flooded Dutch kitchens at unprecedented quantities and prices. Nutmeg became the spice that the Netherlands grated over everything: vegetables, béchamel, potato dishes, and soups. To this day, the Dutch use more nutmeg per capita than any other European nation, and a Dutch cook who runs out of nutmeg considers it a domestic crisis. Stamppot comes in many regional forms; boerenkool stamppot (with curly kale, the most common), zuurkool stamppot (with sauerkraut), hutspot (with carrots and onions); but all are finished with the same generous grating of the spice that cost so much blood to obtain.
Boerenkool stamppot with rookworst is the quintessential Dutch winter dish, traditionally eaten on the first night of heavy frost when boerenkool (curly kale) is at its sweetest; frost converts the starches in kale to sugars, softening the flavour. The zuurkool (sauerkraut) version is even older and more associated with the Dutch Reformed tradition of austere, filling winter food. Hutspot; made with carrots, potatoes, and onions; is traditionally eaten on 3 October to celebrate the relief of Leiden's siege by Spanish forces in 1574. In all versions, the nutmeg is non-negotiable.
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