Savillum

A recipe from Cato the Elder, 160 BCE

Origin: Roman Empire

From the journey of Cinnamon.

Savillum is one of the oldest recorded dessert recipes in Western food history, documented by Cato the Elder in De Agri Cultura around 160 BCE. The original is a baked honey and fresh cheese tart, finished with more honey and poppy seeds. By the time cinnamon became widely available in the Roman Empire (around 100 CE), it was priced at more than fifteen times its weight in silver and added to recipes as the ultimate luxury spice. This recreation bridges Cato's original formula with the cinnamon-enhanced versions described in Apicius (the first Roman celebrity cookbook) where cinnamon appears in both savoury sauces and sweet baked goods.

Ingredients

Base

  • 400 g ricotta or fresh curd cheese
  • 2 eggs
  • 4 tbsp raw honey, plus extra for finishing
  • 2 tbsp spelt flour or plain flour

Spice

  • 1 tsp ground cinnamon
  • 1 pinch ground black pepper

Lining

  • 4 fresh bay leaves, for lining the tin

Topping

  • 1 tbsp poppy seeds, for topping

Method

  1. Preheat the oven to 180°C (160°C fan). Lightly oil a 20cm round cake tin or ovenproof dish. Line the base with fresh bay leaves (or baking parchment if bay leaves are unavailable).
  2. Beat the ricotta or curd cheese in a bowl until smooth and free of lumps.
  3. Add the eggs, honey, flour, ground cinnamon and black pepper. Beat together until a smooth, uniform batter forms.
  4. Pour the batter over the bay leaves in the prepared tin. Smooth the surface gently.
  5. Bake for 30-35 minutes until the savillum is set, slightly puffed and lightly golden on top. A skewer inserted into the centre should come out clean.
  6. Allow to cool in the tin for 10 minutes. The cake will deflate slightly as it cools: this is normal.
  7. While still warm, drizzle generously with raw honey. Scatter poppy seeds over the surface.
  8. Serve warm directly from the dish, or unmould carefully onto a plate. The bay leaves on the base are decorative and not eaten.

Notes

Savillum is intentionally simpler and less sweet than modern cheesecake. It is closer in texture to a set ricotta tart. Serve with additional honey for drizzling. The black pepper is subtle but historically accurate: the Romans used pepper in sweet dishes as a flavour enhancer.

The Gastrographer

The Gastrographer

Mapping Culinary History

To explore — select an ingredient below.

Journey Point Map Key

Ingredient originTrade or transit route
Became a culinary stapleColonial / trade control
c. 1890 CE
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1890 CE
3000 BCE100 CE1640 CE1890 CE
Cinnamon

Cinnamon

Cinnamomum spp.

Spices & AromaticsTree Bark

🌍Origin

Sri Lanka, South India and Southeast Asia. — c. 3000 BCE

🌱Domestication

Three distinct species of Cinnamomum shaped the global cinnamon story, each with its own origin, character, and trade corridor. Cinnamomum verum (true cinnamon) is native to Sri Lanka’s hill country, where Salagama caste peelers developed the delicate art of stripping, drying, and rolling the inner bark into thin, layered quills: a technique unchanged for millennia. Sri Lanka produces 80–90% of the world’s C. verum to this day, and it remains the benchmark for quality. Cinnamomum malabatrum (Malabar cinnamon) is native to the Western Ghats of Kerala: here it is not the bark but the aromatic leaf that is traded, known to the ancient world as malabathrum and recorded in the 1st-century Periplus of the Erythraean Sea as a prized Malabar coast export. Cinnamomum burmannii (Indonesian or Korintje cinnamon) is native to the forested highlands of Sumatra and is the most widely sold cinnamon in the world today: bolder, more pungent, and less complex than C. verum, it is the cinnamon of American supermarkets, most Southeast Asian cooking, and the majority of commercially produced cinnamon products globally. Cinnamomum cassia (Chinese cassia) has a fourth independent origin in the forests of Guangxi and Fujian, traded westward along the Silk Road since at least 2700 BCE. The spice on any given kitchen shelf is one of these four, and they are not interchangeable.

Global Voyage

One of the most prized ancient spices, cinnamon’s source was deliberately obscured by Arab and Phoenician traders for millennia (a disinformation campaign so effective that Roman authors believed it was harvested from bird nests or guarded by giant serpents in an unnamed southern land. The quest to reach and control the cinnamon supply drove some of the most consequential chapters in European colonial history: the Portuguese seized Sri Lanka in 1518, the Dutch VOC ousted them in 1638 and established the brutal plantation system that devastated the island’s forests, before the British took control in 1796. The ancient Roman name for Sri Lanka was Serendib) the origin of the English word serendipity (because any trader who stumbled upon it was set for life. A parallel story unfolded in China, where Cinnamomum cassia had been independently cultivated and traded westward along the Silk Road since at least 2700 BCE, reaching Persia and Arabia through an entirely separate corridor long before Sri Lankan C. verum arrived. A third thread ran through the Indonesian archipelago: Cinnamomum burmannii) native to the forests of West Sumatra, cultivated by the Minangkabau people of the Padang Highlands (entered the spice trade through the Srivijaya Empire and the maritime networks of the Javanese archipelago. Bolder and more pungent than the Sri Lankan original, it is this variety that would eventually become the dominant cinnamon of the modern era, filling American supermarket jars and Southeast Asian kitchens alike. And a fourth corridor ran from Kerala’s Western Ghats, where Cinnamomum malabatrum was traded as malabathrum) an aromatic leaf, not a bark (through the Indian Ocean networks of the 1st century CE. From the Americas to Scandinavia, cinnamon became woven into the culinary identity of nearly every civilisation it reached) but its story is not one origin, one species, or one people: it is three or four distinct trees from different corners of Asia, converging on the same spice rack.

🍽Modern Culinary Role

One of the world’s most universally used spices, but which cinnamon depends entirely on where you are. Cinnamomum verum (true or Ceylon cinnamon), produced almost entirely in Sri Lanka, commands premium prices for its delicate, floral, paper-thin quills; it is the cinnamon of European fine baking, Mexican canela, and the historically authentic spice trade. Cinnamomum burmannii (Indonesian or Korintje cinnamon), produced primarily in Sumatra, supplies the bulk of the American market and most commercial ground cinnamon globally, its thick, dark bark is more pungent and astringent than C. verum and contains higher levels of coumarin. Cinnamomum cassia (Chinese cassia) and its close relative Cinnamomum loureiroi (Vietnamese cassia) dominate the East and Southeast Asian markets, their bold, sharp flavour essential to Chinese five-spice and Vietnamese phở. Cinnamomum malabatrum (Malabar leaf cinnamon) survives as a niche spice in Kerala and Tamil Nadu, its aromatic leaves used in rice cooking and folk medicine. What is sold simply as ‘cinnamon’ in most of the world is C. burmannii; what is sold as ‘true’ or ‘Ceylon’ cinnamon is C. verum. The distinction matters: flavour, coumarin content, and price differ substantially.

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