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Venetian spring asparagus risotto: the tender stalks stirred into a loose, creamy Vialone Nano rice with white wine, the bright tips folded in at the last moment so they hold their colour and snap, finished with a generous mantecare of cold butter and aged Parmigiano
Origin: Venice and the Veneto, Italy
From the journey of Asparagus.
The risotto agli asparagi is one of the great spring dishes of the Veneto. The asparagus harvest in this region runs from April through June, when green asparagus from the fields around Padua, Verona, and the lagoon edges of Venice begins appearing at the Rialto market. The Venetian risotto tradition favours Vialone Nano rice: a semi-fine variety with a firm, small grain that absorbs stock more readily than Arborio and produces a looser, more flowing risotto (cooked all'onda, 'in waves'). The preparation demands respect for the asparagus itself: the stalks are cooked into the risotto, their starches thickening and flavouring the rice, while the tips are added only at the end, folded in gently to preserve their vivid colour and just-tender bite. The asparagus poaching water and the stock become the base liquid, concentrating the vegetable's flavour into every grain. The final mantecatura, the vigorous stirring of cold butter and grated Parmigiano off the heat, is what makes a Venetian risotto: the emulsification of fat into starch creates the glossy, creamy consistency that should fall off the spoon in one continuous wave rather than sitting in a mound.
Vialone Nano is the native rice of the Veneto and is specifically suited to this dish: its small, firm grain absorbs stock quickly and produces a looser, more flowing risotto than Arborio. If unavailable, Carnaroli is the best substitute. The asparagus purée step is optional but highly recommended for depth of flavour and colour. Without it, this is still a beautiful risotto; with it, it becomes deeply and specifically asparagus.
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