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Ottoman rose water and pistachio milk pudding, set with mastic and scattered with crushed pistachios
Origin: Ottoman Empire (Istanbul and the Levant)
From the journey of Pistachio.
Muhallabia (محلبية, also muhallebi in Turkish) is the great milk pudding of the Arab and Ottoman culinary traditions: a preparation so ancient in the Abbasid kitchen that it appears in the 10th-century Baghdad cookbook of Ibn Sayyar al-Warraq (Kitab al-Tabikh), where it is described as a pudding of rice flour, milk, and sugar, perfumed with rose water. By the Ottoman period, muhallabia had become the canonical dessert of the empire's court and palace kitchens, the preparation that closed a formal meal from Istanbul to Cairo to Algiers. The pistachio version — muhallabia fıstıklı — is the prestige form: the pale, trembling milk pudding turned out onto a plate or spooned into wide, shallow glasses, then scattered with a generous quantity of crushed Antep pistachios whose vivid green against the white of the pudding creates one of the most characteristic colour combinations in Ottoman confectionery. The addition of mastic (damla sakızı in Turkish, the resinous exudate of the lentisk tree of Chios) to this version gives the pudding a faint, pine-scented note and a slight additional firmness that allows it to set cleanly. Mastic has been the flavouring agent of the Ottoman kitchen since the Ottomans acquired Chios and its mastic monopoly in 1566: the spice appears in sweets, ice creams, breads, and liqueurs (mastika) across the former empire. This pudding combines three of the most historically significant flavours of the Ottoman table: rose water, pistachio, and mastic.
For an even more traditional Ottoman presentation, unmould the pudding: wet a flat plate, place it over the serving dish, and invert. The pudding should slip out cleanly, its surface smooth and trembling. The pistachios and rose petals can then be scattered over the unmoulded pudding on the plate. Muhallabia fıstıklı keeps refrigerated for up to two days; add the pistachio topping only at the moment of serving, as the nuts soften if left on the pudding overnight.
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