Nattō Gohan

Fermented soybeans over steamed rice: Japan's polarising and nutritionally extraordinary breakfast, stirred with karashi mustard and soy sauce until the sticky, glossy strings form a viscous silk over the rice

Origin: Kantō Region, Japan

From the journey of Soy.

Nattō (納豆, 'packaged beans') is one of the world's most extreme fermented foods: whole soybeans fermented by Bacillus subtilis var. natto, producing a profoundly pungent, ammonia-edged aroma, a uniquely glutinous texture in which long elastic strings of polyglutamic acid stretch between the beans in gossamer threads, and an intensely savoury, almost cheese-like flavour that is simultaneously repellent and compelling to uninitiated eaters. Nattō divides Japanese opinion regionally: it is loved with evangelical devotion in the Kantō region (Tokyo and eastward) and in Tōhoku and Hokkaido, whilst many people from the Kansai region (Osaka, Kyoto) maintain a theatrical dislike for it. The standard origin legend dates nattō to the 11th century, when the warrior Minamoto no Yoshiie is said to have accidentally fermented soybeans left wrapped in straw whilst on campaign: the B. subtilis spores that naturally coat rice straw transformed the cooked beans overnight. The modern production method uses industrial inoculation with pure B. subtilis cultures and Styrofoam or styrofoam-like packaging (replacing the traditional wara, rice straw), but the fermentation principle is unchanged. The health claims surrounding nattō are among the most substantiated for any traditional food: it contains nattokinase (a fibrinolytic enzyme that may reduce blood clot risk), high levels of vitamin K2 (menaquinone, critical for bone and cardiovascular health), and isoflavones from the soybean base. Whether for health reasons or simply for love of the flavour, nattō gohan, fermented soybeans stirred over hot steamed rice, is the most nutritionally concentrated and culturally specific breakfast eaten by millions of Japanese people every morning.

Ingredients

Nattō

1 pack (45–50 g) nattō (commercially prepared, with included soy sauce tare and karashi mustard packets)

Rice

1 bowl (180–200 g) freshly cooked Japanese short-grain rice, hot

Seasoning

1 tsp soy sauce (or use the included tare packet)
0.5 tsp karashi mustard (Japanese hot mustard, or use the included packet)

Garnish

1 spring onion, finely sliced

Optional

0.5 tsp toasted sesame oil (optional)

Method

Open the nattō pack. Add the soy sauce tare (or 1 tsp soy sauce) and the karashi mustard. Using chopsticks or a fork, stir vigorously in a circular motion for 30–60 seconds. As you stir, long glutinous strings will form between the beans and the mixture will become paler and more viscous. The more you stir, the more flavour and the more pronounced the strings. Many Japanese people stir at least 50–100 times.
Heap the freshly cooked hot rice into a bowl. Spoon the prepared nattō directly over the hot rice.
Add the finely sliced spring onion over the nattō. Add a few drops of sesame oil if using.
Mix the nattō into the rice by folding and turning from the sides, or eat it in layers: a bite of plain rice followed by a scoop of nattō from the top, with the strings pulling between bowl and chopsticks in the characteristic nattō fashion.

Notes

Good-quality nattō is available frozen from Japanese and Asian grocery stores worldwide: the standard small-pack (three 45 g packets per pack) is the correct portion. Freeze on arrival and defrost overnight in the refrigerator before use. Nattō should be used within 24 hours of defrosting. Do not heat nattō beyond gently warming with the rice: high heat destroys the nattokinase enzyme and the glutinous string texture. For first-time eaters: begin with a small amount stirred into a large bowl of rice with plenty of spring onion and a little extra soy sauce, so the flavour is distributed rather than concentrated. The aroma is challenging; the flavour, once the initial surprise passes, is deeply savoury and unlike anything else in the world.

The Gastrographer

Name: Nattō Gohan
Prep time: 5 min
Total time: 5 min
Yield: 1
Cuisine: Japan
Ingredients: 1 pack (45–50 g) nattō (commercially prepared, with included soy sauce tare and karashi mustard packets); 1 bowl (180–200 g) freshly cooked Japanese short-grain rice, hot; 1 tsp soy sauce (or use the included tare packet); 0.5 tsp karashi mustard (Japanese hot mustard, or use the included packet); 1 spring onion, finely sliced; 0.5 tsp toasted sesame oil (optional)

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Journey Point Map Key

Ingredient originTrade or transit route

Became a culinary stapleColonial / trade control