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European Christmas spiced red wine with whole cloves, cinnamon, star anise and orange, sweetened with honey and served hot
Origin: Northern Europe: Germany, Alsace & Britain
From the journey of Cloves.
Mulled wine (Glühwein in German, vin chaud in French, glögg in Scandinavian) is the drink most identified with the European Christmas market tradition, and it is also, in its structural logic, the direct descendant of the Roman conditum paradoxum: spiced wine sweetened with honey, drunk warm. The Roman recipe passed through the medieval European spiced wine tradition (hippocras, piment) and arrived in the nineteenth century as the Christmas drinks we now know, transformed by the Dutch VOC's democratisation of spices in the seventeenth century, which made cloves, cinnamon, and nutmeg cheap enough to be added to a pot of wine without financial drama. Cloves are the essential spice of mulled wine (their warmth, sweetness, and slightly medicinal depth are what make heated wine feel like medicine as well as pleasure, which is the cultural function of mulled wine in the cold climates of northern Europe. The Christmas markets of Strasbourg, Nuremberg, and Cologne) which date in documented form to the fourteenth century: serve mulled wine in ceramic mugs that carry a deposit, guaranteeing their return, in a ritual of warmth and sociability that the clove has been facilitating since the Han Dynasty courtiers held it in their mouths before addressing the emperor.
The wine quality matters: use something you would drink, not the worst bottle on the shelf. Inexpensive full-bodied reds with low tannin and good fruit work best: overly tannic wines become harsh when heated. Ruby port deepens the colour and adds a fortified sweetness that is excellent but not essential. For a non-alcoholic version, use a combination of grape juice and cranberry juice in place of the wine, reducing the honey to 1 tablespoon and increasing the orange juice to 300ml.
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