Mole Negro

Oaxacan black mole with mulato and pasilla chillies, charred tortilla, plantain, dark chocolate and cloves: the most complex sauce in the Americas

Origin: Oaxaca, Mexico

From the journey of Cloves.

Mole negro is the deepest, darkest, and most complex of the seven moles of Oaxaca (a sauce of such formidable depth and so many ingredients that it is rarely made for fewer than twenty people and is reserved for the weddings, funerals, and saints' days that punctuate the Oaxacan calendar. The word mole comes from the Nahuatl molli, meaning sauce) the same root as ahuaca-molli (guacamole) (but where guacamole is made in minutes with five ingredients, mole negro requires hours and contains, in most traditional versions, between twenty and thirty distinct ingredients, toasted and ground separately before being combined in a sequence that every Oaxacan cook has memorised as a meditation. The cloves in mole negro are part of the spice inheritance that arrived with the Spanish in the sixteenth century: cloves, black pepper, cinnamon, and cumin were folded by indigenous Oaxacan cooks into the existing Mesoamerican spice vocabulary of dried chillies, chocolate, and seeds, and the result) after several generations of refinement (is a sauce of astonishing complexity in which no single ingredient can be identified but all are necessary. The characteristic blackness of mole negro comes from a charred dried mulato chilli and, crucially, from the charring of the tortilla) a technique that produces a bitter, smoky carbon note that balances the richness of the fat and chocolate. The cloves sit in the background, lending warmth and a sweet spice note that amplifies the chocolate and moderates the chilli heat. This recipe is a home version: a serious undertaking, but achievable in a single afternoon.

Ingredients

Chillies

  • 4 dried mulato chillies, stems and seeds removed
  • 4 dried pasilla negro chillies (chilhuacle negro), stems and seeds removed
  • 2 dried ancho chillies, stems and seeds removed
  • 1 dried chipotle chilli, stem and seeds removed
  • 2 tbsp lard or neutral oil

Thickeners

  • 1 small corn tortilla (or ½ a stale one)
  • 1 slice stale bread, torn into pieces
  • ½ ripe plantain or very ripe banana, peeled and sliced
  • 30 g raisins

Aromatics

  • 2 medium ripe tomatoes, quartered
  • 4 tomatillos (or extra tomatoes), husked and quartered
  • 1 medium white onion, roughly chopped
  • 6 cloves garlic, unpeeled

Spices

  • 6 whole cloves
  • 8 black peppercorns
  • ½ tsp cumin seeds
  • 1 small piece of Mexican cinnamon (canela) or ½ tsp ground cinnamon
  • 1 tbsp sesame seeds, toasted

Finishing

  • 60 g dark chocolate (70% cacao minimum), roughly chopped
  • 2 tsp fine sea salt
  • 1 tsp caster sugar (optional: to balance the bitterness)

Liquid

  • 1 litre rich chicken or turkey stock

To Serve

  • cooked chicken or turkey pieces, to serve
  • sesame seeds and fresh coriander, to garnish

Method

  1. Toast the dried chillies: heat a dry comal or cast-iron pan over medium heat. Toast each chilli briefly, pressing flat with a spatula, for 10–15 seconds per side until they darken slightly and smell fragrant (not burnt. Reserve one chilli and char it directly over a gas flame or under a very hot grill until truly black on both sides) this is the chilli that gives the mole its dark colour. Soak all chillies in hot water for 20 minutes until soft. Drain.
  2. In the same dry pan, char the tortilla directly over the flame or in the pan until it is completely blackened on both sides. Tear into pieces. Separately, fry the bread pieces, plantain, and raisins in a little lard until golden and fragrant. Set all aside.
  3. In a hot dry pan, dry-roast the tomatoes, tomatillos, onion, and unpeeled garlic until blackened and soft. Peel the garlic when cool. Toast the whole cloves, peppercorns, cumin, and cinnamon together in the dry pan for 1–2 minutes until fragrant.
  4. In batches, blend the soaked chillies with enough stock to make a smooth paste. Then blend the roasted tomatoes, onion, and garlic. Then blend the bread, tortilla, plantain, and raisins with stock. Then blend the spices. Strain each paste through a medium sieve if a very smooth mole is desired.
  5. Heat 2 tablespoons of lard or oil in a large, heavy pot over medium-high heat until very hot. Add the chilli paste (it will splatter) and fry, stirring constantly, for 5 minutes until it darkens and thickens. Add the tomato paste and fry another 5 minutes. Add the bread-and-fruit paste and fry 3 minutes. Add the spice paste and fry 2 minutes.
  6. Add the remaining stock (about 700ml) gradually, stirring to combine all the pastes into a unified sauce. Add the chocolate and stir until melted. Season with salt and sugar. Simmer over low heat, partially covered, for 45 minutes, stirring every 10 minutes: mole can scorch on the bottom. It should be thick enough to coat a spoon. Serve over cooked chicken or turkey, garnished with sesame seeds and coriander.

Notes

Mulato and pasilla negro chillies are the essential varieties for authentic mole negro (the mulato for its fruity, chocolate-cherry character and the pasilla for its earthy, dried-fruit depth. Ancho chillies are more widely available and can substitute for either in a pinch. The combination of charred tortilla and dark chocolate is what gives mole negro its distinctive black-brown colour) do not reduce either. Mexican cinnamon (canela) is softer and sweeter than Vietnamese or Ceylon cinnamon; use Ceylon cinnamon rather than the harder Cassia varieties if canela is unavailable.

The Gastrographer

The Gastrographer

Mapping Culinary History

To explore — select an ingredient below.

Journey Point Map Key

Ingredient originTrade or transit route
Became a culinary stapleColonial / trade control
c. 1890 CE
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15 of 15 stops
1890 CE
1000 BCE1350 CE1605 CE1890 CE
Cloves

Cloves

Syzygium aromaticum

Spices & AromaticsMyrtaceae

🌍Origin

🌱Domestication

Cloves are the dried, unopened flower buds of Syzygium aromaticum, an evergreen tree native exclusively to the small volcanic islands of northern Maluku in what is now eastern Indonesia (specifically Ternate, Tidore, Bacan, Makian, and Moti, a cluster of islands so geographically remote that they were known to the ancient world only as a rumour, the source of a spice so valuable that wars were fought for centuries over the right to trade it. The clove tree grows only in humid tropical conditions at relatively low elevations and was cultivated on these islands for millennia before any outside civilisation knew of its existence. The harvest is the dried, unopened flower bud) picked by hand before it opens, sun-dried until it turns from green to dark brown. In this form it contains one of the highest concentrations of volatile aromatic compounds of any spice: the primary compound, eugenol, constitutes seventy to ninety percent of the clove's essential oil and is so potent that a single clove dropped into a pot of simmering water will perfume the entire kitchen within minutes. The clove's pungency is so extreme that medieval European physicians administered it neat for toothache (eugenol remains the active ingredient in dental anaesthetic to this day. In Maluku, cloves are not merely a crop but a living tradition: trees were planted at the birth of a child, their growth entwined with that of the person born under them, and the oldest known clove trees) survivors of the Dutch VOC's mass burning campaigns of the seventeenth century: are estimated to be more than three hundred years old.

Global Voyage

The clove's journey from Maluku to the world is among the most consequential stories in the history of food, trade, and empire. Archaeological evidence from the ancient Syrian city of Mari has placed cloves in the Levant by approximately 1700 BCE, when the Maluku Islands were entirely unknown to the Mediterranean world, testimony to the extraordinary reach of the prehistoric Indian Ocean trade network that passed the spice from hand to hand across thousands of miles before it could be named or its source located. By the Han Dynasty (206 BCE–220 CE), cloves had reached China, where courtiers were required to hold one in the mouth before addressing the emperor, the first documented use of a breath freshener in history. Arab traders working the monsoon winds dominated the clove trade for nearly a millennium from around 800 CE, carrying the spice to Baghdad, the Levant, and through overland routes to Europe, where a pound of cloves could buy a farm. The Portuguese arrival in the Maluku Islands in 1511–1512, following Vasco da Gama's opening of the sea route around Africa, broke the Arab monopoly and delivered direct access to the Spice Islands to Lisbon (a disruption so profitable that it financed the entire Portuguese Empire for a generation. The Dutch VOC seized Maluku from the Portuguese in 1605 and pursued the most ruthless monopoly in colonial history: burning clove trees on any island not under direct VOC control, slaughtering populations who traded independently, and maintaining prices that made cloves worth more by weight than gold in Amsterdam's markets. The monopoly was broken in 1770 by the French botanist Pierre Poivre) Peter Pepper, as English historians have sometimes rendered his name, who smuggled clove seedlings to Mauritius and Réunion, from which they eventually reached Zanzibar in 1812. With Zanzibar's volcanic soil and tropical climate, the world's centre of clove production shifted decisively from the Spice Islands to the East African coast, where it remains to this day.

🍽Modern Culinary Role

Indonesia remains the world's largest consumer of cloves, not primarily in cooking but in the kretek cigarette, a clove-and-tobacco blend smoked by a large proportion of Indonesian men, which constitutes the single largest use of cloves in the world by volume. In cuisine, cloves flavour an extraordinary range of preparations across every inhabited continent: the Christmas spice blends of northern Europe (mulled wine, Christmas pudding, speculaas, stollen, pfeffernüsse), the garam masalas and biryani of India, the baharat blends of the Arab world, the Yemeni hawaij, the Oaxacan mole negro, and the everyday cooking of the Zanzibar and Maluku islands where they originate. Zanzibar and Indonesia together produce the majority of the world's commercial clove supply. The eugenol extracted from cloves is used in dentistry, perfumery, food flavouring, and as a natural insect repellent, one of the most commercially significant essential oils derived from any spice. In Maluku, the clove remains a cultural and spiritual plant, its history inseparable from the colonial violence that made the Spice Islands the most fought-over geography in the history of the global spice trade, and its cultivation today a quiet assertion of an identity that endured.

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