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Double-crust flaky butter pie filled with wild Vaccinium angustifolium from the managed barrens of Downeast Maine
Origin: Washington County, Downeast Maine
From the journey of Blueberry.
Maine wild blueberry pie is one of the canonical American regional pies: as inseparable from the food identity of Downeast Maine as chowder or lobster rolls, and equally dependent on an ingredient that can only come from one place. Wild lowbush blueberries (Vaccinium angustifolium) from the barrens of Washington County have a flavour intensity, depth, and aromatic complexity that no cultivated blueberry can replicate: they are small, densely pigmented from skin to flesh (unlike highbush cultivars, which have pale interiors), and suffused with the wild, slightly resinous quality of a fruit that has never been domesticated in the conventional sense. The Maine blueberry pie is a two-crust affair: a flaky butter pastry that provides maximum contrast to the deeply flavoured filling. The filling is minimally adorned (sugar, a little lemon, a touch of flour or cornstarch) because the berries need no embellishment. The pie should be intensely blue-black in its filling, deeply flavoured, and not overly sweet: the tartness of the wild berry is the point. Maine blueberry pie reached national awareness through the mid-20th century proliferation of roadside diners and home-cooking cookbooks across New England, and remains one of the few American regional foods that genuinely cannot be replicated with a commercially available substitute.
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