Lo Bak Go

Cantonese pan-fried radish cake with dried shrimp and shiitake, golden and crisped in cast iron

Origin: Guangdong Province & Hong Kong, China

From the journey of Radish.

Lo bak go, 蘿蔔糕, radish cake, is one of the defining dishes of the Cantonese dim sum tradition, served in every yum cha restaurant from Hong Kong to Vancouver to London, and made in home kitchens across the Pearl River Delta for the Lunar New Year, where its name is an auspicious homophone for 'good fortune rising'. The dish is a masterwork of Cantonese culinary intelligence: the daikon radish, with its high moisture content, is grated and sautéed to drive off water, then combined with rice flour and aromatics, dried shrimp, shiitake, Chinese sausage, spring onion, and steamed in a loaf tin until set into a firm, sliceable cake. The real cooking happens when the cold cake is sliced thick and pan-fried in a little oil until the exterior is caramelised to a deeply golden, lacy crust while the interior remains soft, creamy, and fragrant with the sweet earthiness of daikon. The contrast of textures, the shattering crust, the yielding interior, is what makes lo bak go memorable rather than merely satisfying. It is eaten dipped in hoisin sauce, sweet soy, or a small dish of XO sauce, with a cup of pu-erh or chrysanthemum tea, in the unhurried ritual of the dim sum meal.

Ingredients

Cake

  • 800 g daikon (white radish), peeled and coarsely grated
  • 200 g rice flour
  • 2 tbsp tapioca starch or cornflour
  • 1 tsp fine sea salt
  • ½ tsp white pepper
  • ½ tsp caster sugar

Aromatics

  • 30 g dried shrimp, soaked in warm water for 20 minutes, then drained and roughly chopped
  • 4 dried shiitake mushrooms, soaked in warm water for 20 minutes, stems removed, finely diced
  • 1 link lap cheong (Chinese sausage), finely diced (or substitute with 50g diced smoked bacon)
  • 3 spring onions, finely sliced
  • 1 tbsp neutral oil (vegetable or groundnut)

Pan-frying

  • neutral oil, for pan-frying the sliced cake

To Serve

  • hoisin sauce or sweet soy sauce, to serve

Method

  1. Grate the daikon on the large holes of a box grater. Place in a large pan over medium heat with a small splash of water, and cook, stirring occasionally, for 10–12 minutes until the daikon is fully softened and most of its moisture has evaporated. Remove from the heat. Measure the daikon and any remaining liquid; you need approximately 600ml of cooked daikon plus liquid combined. Reserve.
  2. Heat a tablespoon of oil in a wok or frying pan over high heat. Sauté the dried shrimp, shiitake, and lap cheong for 2–3 minutes until fragrant. Add the spring onions and toss for 30 seconds. Remove from heat.
  3. In a large bowl, combine the rice flour, tapioca starch, salt, white pepper, and sugar. Add the cooked daikon (with all its cooking liquid) and the sautéed aromatics. Mix thoroughly with a wooden spoon until a thick, uniform batter forms. It should be thick but pourable, like a heavy porridge.
  4. Pour the batter into a lightly oiled 20×10cm (or similar) loaf tin. Smooth the top. Set the tin in a steamer basket over vigorously boiling water, cover tightly, and steam for 45–50 minutes until fully set; a skewer inserted into the centre should come out clean.
  5. Allow the cake to cool to room temperature, then refrigerate uncovered for at least 2 hours (or overnight). The cold cake will be very firm and easy to slice. Turn out of the tin and cut into 1.5cm slices.
  6. To serve: heat a thin layer of neutral oil in a non-stick or cast-iron pan over medium-high heat. Add the cake slices in a single layer. Cook for 3–4 minutes per side without moving, until each side is deeply golden and caramelised, with a lacy, crisped edge. Serve immediately with hoisin or sweet soy.

Notes

For a vegetarian version, omit the dried shrimp and lap cheong and increase the shiitake to 8 mushrooms. Add a tablespoon of light soy sauce to the batter for savouriness. Lap cheong (Chinese sausage) is available in Asian grocery stores: its sweet, slightly funky character is irreplaceable, but a good smoked pork sausage or smoked bacon diced small is a workable substitute. Lo bak go freezes well after steaming: slice and freeze between layers of parchment, then pan-fry from frozen over medium heat.

The Gastrographer

The Gastrographer

Mapping Culinary History

To explore — select an ingredient below.

Journey Point Map Key

Ingredient originTrade or transit route
Became a culinary stapleColonial / trade control
c. 1780 CE
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12 of 12 stops
1780 CE
2700 BCE710 CE1500 CE1780 CE
Radish

Radish

Raphanus sativus

VegetablesBrassicaceae

🌍Origin

🌱Domestication

The radish (Raphanus sativus) is amongst the very earliest vegetables to enter human cultivation, and it carries the distinction of being one of the first plants whose use is recorded in writing at all. Inscriptions at Giza dated to approximately 2700 BCE record that radishes, onions, and garlic were issued as rations to the labourers who raised the Great Pyramid of Khufu, placing the root in the documentary record of human diet earlier than almost any other vegetable. Its wild ancestor is generally held to be a form of Raphanus raphanistrum, the wild radish native to the eastern Mediterranean and western Asia, a plant still common as a weed of disturbed ground across that whole region; the cultivated radish is so thoroughly a creature of the garden that its precise wild progenitor remains a matter of scholarly debate, and no truly wild population of R. sativus is known. Cultivation appears to have developed along at least two distinct axes that produced two utterly different vegetables from one species. The Mediterranean and Near Eastern tradition selected the small, quick-growing, sharply peppery roots familiar to ancient Egypt, Greece, and Rome, the ancestors of the little spring radishes and the elegant French Breakfast of the European garden. A parallel East Asian tradition, whether arising from an independent domestication or from the early eastward transmission of seed along the trade corridors that preceded the Silk Road, developed an entirely separate lineage of large, long, white, mild-fleshed roots, the daikon of Japan and the mooli of India, vegetables that can weigh many kilograms and bear little resemblance to their fiery Mediterranean cousins beyond the shared botanical name. By the Han Dynasty (from 206 BCE to 220 CE) the white radish was fully established as a field crop in China, set down in the agricultural manuals under the name luóbo and valued in the early pharmacopoeias for its digestive virtues. From these Chinese varieties descend the daikon and the Korean mu, the radish reaching Japan no later than the Nara period (from 710 to 794 CE), where the chronicle Nihon Shoki records its cultivation and where the root was honoured as one of the seven herbs of autumn. Across both its traditions, the radish shares a single defining quality: it is fast, hardy, and obliging, a root that grows almost anywhere and matures in weeks, which is precisely why so many cultures took it up so early and have never since let it go.

Global Voyage

The radish traces two great arcs across the world, a western and an eastern, that between them carried a single species into very nearly every cuisine on earth. The western arc began in the radish's Egyptian and Levantine homeland and moved north and west into the Greek city-states, where the root was held in a regard bordering on the sacred: the Oracle at Delphi reckoned it worth its weight in gold, and golden replicas of radishes were dedicated to Apollo in his temple as votive offerings. From Greece it passed to Rome, where Pliny the Elder devoted an extended passage of his Natural History to its varieties, its flavours, and its medicinal powers, and the cook Apicius dressed it with the fermented fish sauce garum; and from Rome the legions carried its seed north and west across Europe, planting it at their winter camps and seeding the European garden tradition that Charlemagne's ninth-century estate ordinances would later codify. In the cold lands of Central and Eastern Europe the radish found a winter role, the great black-skinned Rettich grated with onion and dressed with fat through the dark months, whilst in Bavaria the long white Radi became the canonical companion to a Mass of lager in the beer garden. The eastern arc was the journey of an altogether different vegetable. The large white radish travelled the trade corridors into China, where by the Han Dynasty it was a major field crop, and from there it divided again. Northward and eastward it passed into Korea and Japan, where it was transformed into the mu and the daikon that underpin those cuisines at the most fundamental level, the daikon simmered in dashi, grated raw beside tempura, and fermented into the bright pickles of the Japanese table, the mu cubed and fermented into the kkakdugi of the Korean. Southward and westward the root moved through the hands of Arab and Indian Ocean traders, riding the monsoon networks into the Indian subcontinent, where it became the pungent mooli of the Punjabi paratha, and onward into Southeast Asia, where the quick-pickled daikon threads through Vietnamese, Thai, and Filipino cooking and gives the bánh mì its sharp, sweet crunch. The radish's last great voyage was a return westward across the Atlantic, carried by Spanish missionaries to the Americas in the sixteenth century, where it took such root in the soil of Oaxaca that it became at once a standard condiment of the taco stand and the centrepiece of a civic festival. France, meanwhile, refined the small garden radish into the elegant, white-tipped French Breakfast variety and raised the simplest of all its preparations, the fresh radish with good butter and salt, into a small canon of disciplined simplicity. From a golden offering at Delphi to a carved tableau in a Mexican square, the radish has gone almost everywhere, and reinvented itself at nearly every stop.

🍽Modern Culinary Role

Few vegetables span so enormous a range as the radish does today, and fewer still carry that range under a single name. At one end stand the small, sharp, magenta-skinned globes of a French spring salad and the slender, white-tipped French Breakfast; at the other, the two-kilogram white giants of a Japanese winter harvest and the colossal Sakurajima of Kagoshima. Between them lie the sweet, green-and-rose watermelon-fleshed beauty-heart radish of northern China, the jet-black-skinned winter Rettich of Central Europe, and the long, fiery mooli of the Punjab. They are eaten in every manner a root can be: raw and crisp, pickled and sour, simmered soft, fermented fiery, fried into cakes, and grated into condiment. By sheer volume of consumption the daikon is the most eaten radish on earth, and it is fundamental to Japanese cooking in three distinct guises, as a simmered vegetable in the dish family of nimono, as the raw grated relish oroshi that accompanies tempura and grilled fish, and as a whole genre of pickle within the tsukemono tradition, of which the bright yellow takuan is the most famous. Elsewhere the radish is no less indispensable to the cuisines that know it. In Korea the denser, more pungent mu is the foundation of kkakdugi, the cubed radish kimchi, and a structural ingredient of countless soups and braises. In India the mooli is grated, spiced, and sealed into the millions of parathas griddled every morning across Punjab, Rajasthan, and Uttar Pradesh, and pickled into the fierce oil-cured achar of the summer larder. In Vietnam the quick-pickled daikon brightens the bánh mì and the grilled-meat plate; in the Levant the magenta turshi sharpens the falafel wrap; in Bavaria the shaved Radi accompanies the beer; in Mexico the sliced raw radish arrives unbidden with every order of tacos, its cold, watery crunch cutting the richness of carnitas and barbacoa. Nutritionally light, swift to grow, and forgiving of poor soil, the radish is the most genuinely universal of root vegetables, at once ubiquitous, unpretentious, and quietly irreplaceable in every tradition that has taken it up.

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