Lemon curd

England's sunlit preserve: egg and butter cooked with lemon until it thickens to a glossy, tart curd

Origin: England

From the journey of Lemon.

Lemon curd is one of England's most characteristic food preparations: a thick, silky, intensely flavoured spread made by cooking lemon juice, zest, eggs, and butter together over gentle heat until they emulsify and thicken into a glossy, golden preserve. It is, in its essence, a cold-climate interpretation of the lemon: a way of capturing the brightness of citrus in a form that can be spread on bread, spooned into tarts, folded into creams, or eaten from the jar with a spoon. The earliest English lemon curd recipes appear in the mid-19th century, when the phrase 'lemon cheese' (a common early name for the preparation) begins appearing in domestic cookery books. The technique of thickening a lemon custard with butter and egg was known to English cooks from the 18th century; lemon cheesecakes using a similar filling are documented from that period; but the modern lemon curd as a preserving preparation, potted in jars, is a Victorian development. The Victorian period saw both the height of English domestic preserving culture and a significant increase in affordable lemon access, as Mediterranean lemons became more reliably available through improved trade routes. Lemon curd became a staple of the English larder in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. It was spread on bread and butter, used to fill Victoria sponge cakes, spooned into tart cases (lemon curd tarts and lemon meringue pie both depend on the same basic preparation), and given as gifts. The Women's Institute, established in 1915, distributed lemon curd recipes and techniques widely through its cooking programs, cementing the preparation as part of English domestic food culture. The quality of lemon curd depends almost entirely on the quality of the lemons. Good lemon curd should be intensely lemony; sour, bright, fragrant; with the butter adding richness without muting the citrus. It should not be sweet first and lemony second; the lemon must lead. English cooks with lemon trees (or access to very good unwaxed lemons) know the difference between a curd made with perfumed, garden lemons and one made with supermarket fruit; it is considerable.

Ingredients

  • 4 large unwaxed lemons, zest of all four, juice of all four (approximately 160ml)
  • 200 g caster sugar
  • 100 g unsalted butter, cut into small cubes
  • 4 large eggs
  • 2 large egg yolks (in addition to the whole eggs)

Method

  1. Combine the lemon zest, lemon juice, sugar, and butter in a heatproof bowl set over a saucepan of barely simmering water (a bain-marie). Stir occasionally until the butter has melted and the sugar has dissolved. Remove from heat and allow to cool slightly; to about 60°C.
  2. In a separate bowl, lightly whisk together the eggs and egg yolks; just enough to combine them without creating foam.
  3. Pour the egg mixture into the warm (not hot) lemon-butter mixture through a fine sieve, stirring constantly as you pour.
  4. Return the bowl to the bain-marie over gently simmering water. Cook, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon or silicone spatula, for 10–15 minutes until the curd thickens enough to coat the back of the spoon; when you draw a finger through the coating on the spoon, the line should hold.
  5. Remove from heat. Strain through a fine sieve into a clean jug to remove the zest and any cooked egg threads. The curd will continue to thicken as it cools.
  6. Pour immediately into sterilised jars and seal. Allow to cool at room temperature before refrigerating.

Notes

Lemon curd keeps in the refrigerator for 3–4 weeks. Serve spread on buttered toast or scones, as a filling for tarts and Victoria sponge, layered with cream in a roulade, folded into whipped cream to make a lemon fool, or eaten directly from the jar. For a lime curd, substitute lime juice and zest in equal proportions; the result is greener and sharper. For a lighter, less rich curd, reduce the butter to 60g; the flavour is more acidic and the texture slightly less silky.

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Became a culinary stapleColonial / trade control
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