Lemon butter

Australia's beloved preserve: sharper than English curd, richer with butter, a staple of the Antipodean larder

Origin: Australia

From the journey of Lemon.

Lemon butter is the Australian name for what English cooks call lemon curd, a thick, egg-and-butter preserve of lemon juice and zest, but in Australia, the preparation has evolved into something distinctly its own: typically sharper, more intensely lemony, and higher in butter than the British version, reflecting the use of local Eureka and Lisbon lemons (which are more acidic than the English Meyer or Italian sfusato) and the Australian domestic tradition of more generous butter use in preserves and baked goods. The eucalyptus-edged summers of coastal New South Wales and Western Australia, where lemon trees grow prolifically in home gardens, established lemon butter as one of the defining jars of the Australian pantry. Lemon trees are ubiquitous in Australian backyards, they are one of the most commonly grown backyard fruit trees, and the abundance of home-grown lemons in late winter and spring (the Australian lemon season) created a strong preserving tradition. The Women's Weekly Cookbook (first published 1952) and subsequent editions made lemon butter one of the most reproduced Australian home recipes of the 20th century. Australian lemon butter is eaten spread on bread and butter, piped into pavlova (the other great Australian lemon vehicle), spooned over ice cream, used to fill sponge cakes, and layered into lamingtons and cream buns. It is also an important ingredient in the Australian pavlova tradition: the combination of crisp meringue, whipped cream, and tart lemon butter (drizzled or spread over the cream) is considered by many Australian cooks to be the definitive pavlova topping: the lemon butter cutting through the sweetness of the meringue and the richness of the cream in a way that fresh lemon cannot. The distinction between Australian lemon butter and English lemon curd is partly nominal and partly substantive. Australian recipes typically call for more butter and a higher proportion of lemon juice, producing a richer, sharper result. The technique is the same; gentle heat, constant stirring, bain-marie or very low direct heat; but the balance point is different: where English lemon curd tends toward sweetness-with-sharpness, Australian lemon butter tends toward sharpness-with-richness.

Ingredients

  • 4 large unwaxed lemons, zest of all four, juice of all four (approximately 160–180ml)
  • 250 g caster sugar
  • 125 g unsalted butter, cut into small cubes
  • 3 large eggs plus 2 extra yolks, lightly beaten

Method

  1. Place all ingredients in a heatproof bowl set over a saucepan of barely simmering water (bain-marie). Stir gently to combine.
  2. Cook over the simmering water, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, for 15–20 minutes until the mixture thickens enough to coat the back of the spoon. It should hold a clear line when you drag your finger across the spoon.
  3. Remove from heat. Strain through a fine sieve into a clean jug to remove the zest and any cooked egg. The butter will continue to thicken as it cools.
  4. Pour into sterilised jars while still hot. Seal immediately. Cool at room temperature, then refrigerate.

Notes

Australian lemon butter keeps refrigerated for 3–4 weeks. It is used as: a spread on toast, crumpets, and scones; a filling for sponge cakes and tarts; a topping or filling for pavlova (spread between cream layers or drizzled on top); a sauce for ice cream; a filling for brandy snaps and cream puffs. The 'butter' in the name refers to the butter content, not to a dairy butter product in the American sense; it is still a citrus preserve, not a butter substitute. For a lime butter, substitute lime juice and zest directly for the lemon.

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