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Fresh ground walnut, green chilli and herb chutney from the Kashmir Valley
Origin: Kashmir, India
From the journey of Walnut.
Kashmir is India's walnut country: the high-altitude valley floor and the surrounding Zabarwan, Pir Panjal, and Ladakh foothills produce walnuts of exceptional quality, prized across the subcontinent for their large kernels, pale colour, and mild flavour. Mughal records from Akbar's reign describe the Valley's walnut orchards, and Kashmiri walnuts appear in the inventory of Mughal imperial kitchens. The walnut chutney (akhrot chutney) is the freshest and most direct expression of this ingredient in Kashmiri cooking: a condiment ground from shelled walnuts with green chillies, fresh ginger, coriander, and mint, sharpened with lemon juice, and eaten alongside any meal that needs a cooling, protein-rich counterpoint to heat. In the Kashmiri wazwan, the great multi-dish feast of up to thirty-six courses served at weddings, the walnut chutney appears as part of the supporting cast, a small accompaniment to the rista (meatballs in red gravy), the goshtaba (yogurt meatballs), and the various lamb preparations. But it is also the everyday condiment: stirred into plain yogurt, spread on lavasa or sheermal bread, or served alongside the crispy mustard-oil fried snacks sold on the streets of Lal Chowk in Srinagar. The fresh chutney takes minutes to make and must be eaten on the day it is made: the walnut oxidises quickly once ground, darkening and losing its bright, milky freshness.
This chutney is meant to be eaten on the day it is made. After a few hours the walnuts oxidise and the colour darkens from pale cream to grey-brown, and the fresh herb brightness fades. It can be preserved for up to 2 days under refrigeration with the film-contact method, but the first-day freshness cannot be recovered. A tablespoon stirred into thick yogurt makes an excellent raita.
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