Watermelon kakigori (Japanese watermelon shaved ice)

The taste of the Japanese summer festival: finely shaved ice drenched in vivid crimson watermelon syrup, a street food tradition that brings the luxury of the Hokkaido Densuke to the paper cup

Origin: Japan (Hokkaido and Tokyo)

From the journey of Watermelon.

Kakigori (かき氷, literally 'shaved ice') is one of Japan's most beloved summer foods, with records of its consumption dating to the Heian period (794 to 1185 CE), when ice harvested from mountain ponds in winter was packed in ice houses and brought to the imperial court as a luxury. Sei Shonagon's Makura no Soshi (The Pillow Book, c. 1000 CE) lists shaved ice with sweet syrup among the refined pleasures of aristocratic summer life. Watermelon kakigori brings the concentrated flavour of Japan's finest watermelons to the democratic form of a street-food paper cup. The Densuke watermelon of Hokkaido, with its distinctive almost entirely black rind and exceptionally dense, sweet flesh, is produced in quantities of fewer than ten thousand fruits per year and sells at auction for sums that would purchase a case of grand cru wine; the syrup made from its pressed juice, poured over a cone of fine snow-like shaved ice, is the most refined expression of watermelon kakigori. The home version, using any good ripe watermelon, produces an entirely satisfying result and is one of the simplest and most refreshing things one can make in a summer kitchen.

Ingredients

syrup base

800 g cold watermelon flesh, rind and seeds removed, cut into rough chunks

syrup

100 g caster sugar
1 tbsp fresh lemon juice

ice

2 litres filtered water, frozen into one or two large ice blocks overnight in a suitable container

optional topping

1 tbsp condensed milk per serving (optional, a contemporary addition popular in modern Japanese kakigori shops)

Method

Blend the watermelon chunks until completely smooth. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve or muslin into a bowl, pressing firmly, to produce a clear, vivid red juice. Discard the solids.
Combine the strained watermelon juice with the caster sugar in a small saucepan. Heat over medium heat, stirring constantly, until the sugar dissolves completely (2 to 3 minutes). Do not boil. Add the lemon juice. Remove from the heat.
Allow the syrup to cool completely, then refrigerate until very cold (at least 2 hours). The syrup keeps refrigerated for up to 5 days.
Prepare the ice. The finest texture comes from shaving a solid block of frozen water on a kakigori machine or electric shaved-ice machine. If using a blender, blend ice cubes in very short 2-second pulses until they form fine snow, working in small batches.
Pack the shaved ice loosely into a high mound in each bowl or paper cup. Pour the cold watermelon syrup over the ice generously, letting it drench the top and run down the sides. If using, drizzle a tablespoon of condensed milk over the top. Serve immediately.

Notes

A traditional Japanese kakigori machine (available from Japanese kitchen stores and online at approximately £30 to £80) produces the authentic snow-like ice texture that makes this dessert exceptional. An electric shaved-ice machine also produces a good result. If neither is available, blend ice cubes in a powerful blender in 2-second pulses until they reach a fine, powdery texture. Kakigori can be made with many other fruits: strawberry, lychee, musk melon, and matcha are among the most popular syrups in Japan. The condensed milk topping, while not traditional in older versions, has become ubiquitous in contemporary Japanese kakigori shops and adds a creamy richness that contrasts pleasingly with the icy fruit.

The Gastrographer

Name: Watermelon kakigori (Japanese watermelon shaved ice)
Prep time: 20 min
Cook time: 10 min
Total time: 30 min
Yield: 4
Cuisine: Japan
Ingredients: 800 g cold watermelon flesh, rind and seeds removed, cut into rough chunks; 100 g caster sugar; 1 tbsp fresh lemon juice; 2 litres filtered water, frozen into one or two large ice blocks overnight in a suitable container; 1 tbsp condensed milk per serving (optional, a contemporary addition popular in modern Japanese kakigori shops)

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Ingredient originTrade or transit route

Became a culinary stapleColonial / trade control