Hong shao rou

Chairman Mao's favourite dish, built on ancient Chinese spice

Origin: Hunan, China

From the journey of Cinnamon.

Cassia bark (Cinnamomum cassia, Chinese cinnamon) has been used in Chinese cooking for over 4,700 years and appears in the earliest Chinese pharmacopoeia. Hong shao rou (red-braised pork belly) is one of the great dishes of Hunanese and Shanghainese cuisine: thick slabs of pork belly slow-braised in soy sauce, Shaoxing rice wine, rock sugar, cassia and star anise until they collapse into trembling, lacquered tenderness. The dish was famously Chairman Mao's comfort food, and the cassia bark is what gives the braising sauce its distinctive warm, resinous depth.

Ingredients

Main

  • 1000 g skin-on pork belly, cut into 4cm cubes

Braising Liquid

  • 2 tbsp dark soy sauce
  • 3 tbsp light soy sauce
  • 4 tbsp Shaoxing rice wine
  • 40 g rock sugar, roughly crushed
  • 500 ml water, approximately

Aromatics

  • 2 cassia bark sticks or Chinese cinnamon
  • 3 star anise
  • 2 dried red chillies
  • 1 thumb fresh ginger, sliced into coins
  • 3 scallions, cut into 5cm lengths

Cooking

  • 1 tbsp vegetable oil

Method

  1. Place the pork belly cubes in a large pot of cold water. Bring to the boil over high heat. Blanch for 5 minutes, then drain and rinse under cold running water. Pat dry.
  2. Heat the vegetable oil in a heavy-based casserole or wok over medium-high heat. Add the pork belly cubes skin-side down and sear until golden, about 3-4 minutes per side. Work in batches if needed.
  3. Add the Shaoxing rice wine and stir, scraping up any browned bits from the bottom of the pan.
  4. Add the dark soy sauce, light soy sauce, rock sugar, cassia bark, star anise, dried chillies, ginger and scallions. Pour in enough water to just cover the pork.
  5. Bring to a full boil over high heat, then reduce heat to low. Cover and braise for 1 hour 30 minutes, turning the pork every 30 minutes, until the meat is very tender and yielding.
  6. Remove the lid and increase the heat to medium. Cook, stirring frequently, for a further 15-20 minutes until the sauce reduces to a thick, glossy glaze that coats the pork.
  7. Remove and discard the cassia bark, star anise, dried chillies, ginger and scallions. Serve immediately over steamed white rice.

Notes

Hong shao rou is even better the next day, reheated gently. The fat solidifies when chilled and can be partially skimmed off if preferred. Do not substitute cassia bark with Ceylon cinnamon: the stronger, more resinous flavour of cassia is essential to this dish.

The Gastrographer

The Gastrographer

Mapping Culinary History

To explore — select an ingredient below.

Journey Point Map Key

Ingredient originTrade or transit route
Became a culinary stapleColonial / trade control
c. 1890 CE
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21 of 21 stops
1890 CE
3000 BCE100 CE1640 CE1890 CE
Cinnamon

Cinnamon

Cinnamomum spp.

Spices & AromaticsTree Bark

🌍Origin

Sri Lanka, South India and Southeast Asia. — c. 3000 BCE

🌱Domestication

Three distinct species of Cinnamomum shaped the global cinnamon story, each with its own origin, character, and trade corridor. Cinnamomum verum (true cinnamon) is native to Sri Lanka’s hill country, where Salagama caste peelers developed the delicate art of stripping, drying, and rolling the inner bark into thin, layered quills: a technique unchanged for millennia. Sri Lanka produces 80–90% of the world’s C. verum to this day, and it remains the benchmark for quality. Cinnamomum malabatrum (Malabar cinnamon) is native to the Western Ghats of Kerala: here it is not the bark but the aromatic leaf that is traded, known to the ancient world as malabathrum and recorded in the 1st-century Periplus of the Erythraean Sea as a prized Malabar coast export. Cinnamomum burmannii (Indonesian or Korintje cinnamon) is native to the forested highlands of Sumatra and is the most widely sold cinnamon in the world today: bolder, more pungent, and less complex than C. verum, it is the cinnamon of American supermarkets, most Southeast Asian cooking, and the majority of commercially produced cinnamon products globally. Cinnamomum cassia (Chinese cassia) has a fourth independent origin in the forests of Guangxi and Fujian, traded westward along the Silk Road since at least 2700 BCE. The spice on any given kitchen shelf is one of these four, and they are not interchangeable.

Global Voyage

One of the most prized ancient spices, cinnamon’s source was deliberately obscured by Arab and Phoenician traders for millennia (a disinformation campaign so effective that Roman authors believed it was harvested from bird nests or guarded by giant serpents in an unnamed southern land. The quest to reach and control the cinnamon supply drove some of the most consequential chapters in European colonial history: the Portuguese seized Sri Lanka in 1518, the Dutch VOC ousted them in 1638 and established the brutal plantation system that devastated the island’s forests, before the British took control in 1796. The ancient Roman name for Sri Lanka was Serendib) the origin of the English word serendipity (because any trader who stumbled upon it was set for life. A parallel story unfolded in China, where Cinnamomum cassia had been independently cultivated and traded westward along the Silk Road since at least 2700 BCE, reaching Persia and Arabia through an entirely separate corridor long before Sri Lankan C. verum arrived. A third thread ran through the Indonesian archipelago: Cinnamomum burmannii) native to the forests of West Sumatra, cultivated by the Minangkabau people of the Padang Highlands (entered the spice trade through the Srivijaya Empire and the maritime networks of the Javanese archipelago. Bolder and more pungent than the Sri Lankan original, it is this variety that would eventually become the dominant cinnamon of the modern era, filling American supermarket jars and Southeast Asian kitchens alike. And a fourth corridor ran from Kerala’s Western Ghats, where Cinnamomum malabatrum was traded as malabathrum) an aromatic leaf, not a bark (through the Indian Ocean networks of the 1st century CE. From the Americas to Scandinavia, cinnamon became woven into the culinary identity of nearly every civilisation it reached) but its story is not one origin, one species, or one people: it is three or four distinct trees from different corners of Asia, converging on the same spice rack.

🍽Modern Culinary Role

One of the world’s most universally used spices, but which cinnamon depends entirely on where you are. Cinnamomum verum (true or Ceylon cinnamon), produced almost entirely in Sri Lanka, commands premium prices for its delicate, floral, paper-thin quills; it is the cinnamon of European fine baking, Mexican canela, and the historically authentic spice trade. Cinnamomum burmannii (Indonesian or Korintje cinnamon), produced primarily in Sumatra, supplies the bulk of the American market and most commercial ground cinnamon globally, its thick, dark bark is more pungent and astringent than C. verum and contains higher levels of coumarin. Cinnamomum cassia (Chinese cassia) and its close relative Cinnamomum loureiroi (Vietnamese cassia) dominate the East and Southeast Asian markets, their bold, sharp flavour essential to Chinese five-spice and Vietnamese phở. Cinnamomum malabatrum (Malabar leaf cinnamon) survives as a niche spice in Kerala and Tamil Nadu, its aromatic leaves used in rice cooking and folk medicine. What is sold simply as ‘cinnamon’ in most of the world is C. burmannii; what is sold as ‘true’ or ‘Ceylon’ cinnamon is C. verum. The distinction matters: flavour, coumarin content, and price differ substantially.

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