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Aztec avocado sauce mashed in a volcanic stone molcajete with serrano chilli, tomato, white onion and lime
Origin: Tenochtitlan, Mexico
From the journey of Avocado.
Guacamole is one of the oldest continuously prepared sauces on earth. The Aztec original, ahuaca-molli from āhuacatl (avocado) and molli (sauce), was made in a molcajete, the volcanic stone mortar and pestle used throughout Mesoamerica for at least three thousand years, and it has been prepared in essentially the same way ever since. Hernán Cortés's soldiers, encountering it in the markets of Tenochtitlan in 1519, described a green sauce made from the 'butter pear' combined with tomatoes and chillies. The preparation they encountered differed only in the absence of lime (citrus arrived in Mexico with the Spanish themselves) and possibly tomato, which was documented in Aztec cuisine but not universally confirmed in early ahuaca-molli recipes. Everything else was already there: the avocado, the chilli, the salt, the white onion, the fresh coriander. The molcajete is not merely a vessel but a method. A blender produces a smooth, aerated purée; a molcajete produces a textured, variegated mash in which some pieces are almost liquid and others are identifiable cubes, and in which the essential oils of the aromatics are released by crushing rather than cutting, producing a depth of flavour no bladed machine can replicate. The word guacamole entered English in the early twentieth century and has since spawned industrial variants of such distance from the original that legislation in Mexico has periodically attempted to define what the word may legally mean. The true guacamole requires five things: ripe avocados, lime, salt, chilli, and the knowledge to leave everything else optional.
The avocado pit trick (leaving the stone in the guacamole to prevent browning) is a myth. What works: pressing cling film directly onto the entire surface to exclude air, combined with sufficient lime juice. For a version closer to the pre-Columbian original, substitute the lime with naranja agria (bitter orange) juice: the acid used before Spanish citrus arrived.
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