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The temple dish that contains no soya bean at all: white sesame ground to a smooth cream and set with kudzu starch into a trembling, ivory block of astonishing richness and silken texture, the most refined creation of Japan's Buddhist shojin kitchen, served cool with a dab of wasabi and a thread of soy
Origin: Mount Koya, Japan
From the journey of Sesame.
Goma-dofu is called a tofu but holds no soya bean: it is sesame 'tofu', a masterpiece of shojin ryori, the vegetarian temple cuisine of Japanese Buddhism. It is most associated with Koyasan (Mount Koya), the monastic centre of the Shingon sect in Wakayama, where the monks have made it for centuries and where it is sold to pilgrims to this day. The technique is patience itself: sesame is ground for a long time to release its oil and become a smooth cream, combined with kudzu (the starch of the kudzu vine) and water, and then stirred over heat without pause until it thickens into a glossy paste that sets, on cooling, into a block of remarkable silkiness and a deep, nutty richness that needs no animal fat to achieve. White sesame gives the classic pale version; black sesame makes a dramatic grey one. Sesame, known in Japan as goma, runs through the whole of the country's cooking, but nowhere is it raised so high as in this quiet temple dish.
Goma-dofu is best eaten within a day of making, as the kudzu set firms and dries over time. Kudzu (kuzuko) gives the authentic, uniquely elastic and glossy texture and is worth seeking out; potato or arrowroot starch will set it but with a softer, less springy result. For a striking variation, use black sesame, which gives a smoky-grey block traditionally served with a dab of sweetened miso. A pinch of sugar in the mix gives the dessert-leaning version eaten with kuromitsu (black sugar syrup).
To explore — select an ingredient below.
To explore — select an ingredient below · click any location dot on the map for recipes and stories · browse the information panel on the right · trace the full journey on the timeline.
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