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The Levant's great street food: crisp, herb-green chickpea fritters fragrant with coriander seed and leaf
Origin: Levant (Egypt / Lebanon / Palestine / Israel)
From the journey of Coriander/Cilantro.
Falafel is one of the world's great street foods and arguably the most iconic Levantine dish, deep-fried patties or balls of soaked (never cooked) chickpeas or fava beans, ground with fresh coriander, fresh parsley, garlic, cumin, and coriander seeds. The origin is disputed with genuine passion: Egypt claims priority with ta'amiya, made from dried fava beans and still sold from carts in Cairo before dawn; Lebanon, Palestine, and Israel popularised and globalised the chickpea version. Both versions share the defining characteristic of abundant fresh coriander and ground coriander seeds, which give falafel its characteristic vibrant green interior and its herb-forward, citrusy, faintly spiced flavour, remove the coriander and you have a different dish entirely. Coriander seeds have been found in Egyptian tombs dating to c.1000 BCE; the fact that this single dish uses both the seed (as a spice) and the fresh leaf (as a herb) illustrates better than almost any other recipe the dual identity of the coriander plant. Falafel spread from the Middle East to become a global street food, adapted into pitta pockets with tahini sauce, pickled turnips, tomato, cucumber, and zhug or hot sauce.
Falafel does not reheat well, the exterior softens and the interior dries out. Uncooked formed patties can be refrigerated for up to 24 hours or frozen for up to one month; fry from frozen, adding 1–2 minutes to the cooking time. For the Egyptian ta'amiya version, substitute the same weight of dried split fava beans (ful medames) for the chickpeas; add a handful of fresh dill alongside the coriander and parsley, and include a tablespoon of spring onion. For a baked version, brush with oil and bake at 200°C for 25 minutes, turning halfway, the texture is different but acceptable.
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