Dulce de Nuez (Argentine candied walnuts in caramel syrup)

Whole walnuts slow-candied in dark caramel syrup: the harvest confection of Mendoza

Origin: Mendoza, Argentina

From the journey of Walnut.

In the Cuyo region of Argentina, Mendoza, San Juan, La Rioja, the walnut harvest falls in April and May, when the copper-coloured hills of the Andes foothills cool and the orchards planted by Jesuit missionaries and Spanish settlers three centuries ago yield their annual crop. Dulce de nuez is the confection of this moment: whole shelled walnut halves or pieces cooked long and slowly in a dark caramel syrup until the sugar crystalises against the walnut's surface and the kernel is saturated with sweetness. It is the Argentine equivalent of a walnut praline or a preserved nut; not a recipe of great complexity but one of great patience, made in large quantities in copper preserving pots and distributed through the hacienda community, offered to visitors, packed into small jars as gifts, and eaten with a slice of soft cheese (queso fresco or queso del campo) in the way Argentines consume all their fruit dulces. The confection is deeply regional: the walnut production of Mendoza and San Juan represents the majority of South American walnut output, and dulce de nuez appears in the local market stalls and traditional food shops of the Cuyo alongside the equally celebrated dulce de membrillo (quince paste) and dulce de leche. The addition of warm spices; cinnamon, a single clove; is traditional in the rural Cuyo version, where the Spanish spice legacy in confectionery has never entirely disappeared.

Ingredients

Walnuts

  • 400 g walnut halves or large pieces

Syrup

  • 350 g caster sugar
  • 200 ml water

Spice

  • 1 stick cinnamon
  • 2 whole cloves
  • 1 strip orange peel (optional)

Seasoning

  • 1 pinch fine sea salt

Finish

  • 1 tbsp dulce de leche (optional, stirred in at the end)

Method

  1. Combine the sugar and water in a heavy-based saucepan. Add the cinnamon stick, cloves, and orange peel if using. Bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring until the sugar dissolves. Stop stirring once the syrup comes to a boil.
  2. Cook the syrup without stirring until it reaches 115°C (239°F) on a sugar thermometer; the soft-ball stage. The syrup will look clear and slightly thickened.
  3. Add the walnut halves and the salt. Stir gently with a wooden spoon to coat all the walnuts in the syrup. Reduce heat to low and cook, stirring gently every 2–3 minutes, for 25–30 minutes. The syrup will thicken gradually, the walnuts will absorb it, and eventually the sugar will begin to crystallise against the walnut surfaces; the mixture will look grainy and sandy.
  4. When the mixture is almost entirely crystallised and the walnuts look coated in a dry, sandy sugar crust, remove from heat. If using dulce de leche, stir it in now; it will melt slightly into the hot sugar and give a caramel-milk richness to the coating.
  5. Remove and discard the cinnamon stick, cloves, and orange peel. Turn the candied walnuts out onto a sheet of baking parchment and separate them with a fork while still warm, before the sugar sets hard. Allow to cool completely to room temperature.
  6. Once completely cool, transfer to a jar or airtight container. Serve with queso fresco, manchego, or a mild cow's milk cheese.

Notes

Dulce de nuez keeps in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 2 weeks. Humidity is the enemy; in warm, humid conditions, the sugar coating softens and becomes sticky. If this happens, the walnuts can be spread on a tray and dried in a very low oven (80°C) for 20 minutes to re-crisp the coating. The dulce de leche addition is not traditional in all versions but gives a richer, more caramel-forward coating that is very good.

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