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Chilled Mexican cream of avocado soup with serrano chilli, crème fraîche and toasted pepitas
Origin: Mexico City & Puebla, Mexico
From the journey of Avocado.
Cold avocado soup is a product of the same logic that produced gazpacho in Andalusia and vichyssoise in France: the recognition that a purée of a naturally cool, creamy ingredient needs no cooking to become one of the most elegant things a kitchen can produce. Crema de aguacate is served throughout central Mexico: in the restaurants of Mexico City, in the market kitchens of Puebla and Oaxaca, and in domestic kitchens where a blender, four ripe avocados, and a lime can produce a first course worthy of any table in ten minutes. The soup sits in the tradition of the Aztec and pre-Aztec use of the avocado as a liquid preparation. Ahuaca-molli (the ancestral guacamole) was a sauce thin enough to be used as a dressing as well as a dip, and the cold soup is its logical extension: the avocado thinned with stock, sharpened with lime and chilli, enriched with crème fraîche or sour cream, and served in a cold bowl with a scattering of toasted pepitas for crunch and a few drops of good Mexican olive oil. The result occupies an interesting culinary space between soup and sauce, between starter and palate cleanser, between ancient preparation and modernist presentation. It requires almost nothing from the cook and reveals everything about the quality of the avocados.
For a richer, more indulgent version, replace the vegetable stock with cold buttermilk: the slight acidity of the buttermilk amplifies the lime and produces a more complex background flavour. A few drops of Tabasco or a pinch of cayenne can substitute for the serrano if needed. This soup is not suitable for freezing.
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