Conditum Paradoxum

Roman spiced honey wine with white pepper, cloves, bay, saffron and mastic: from the kitchen of Apicius, 1st century CE

Origin: Rome, Roman Empire

From the journey of Cloves.

Conditum paradoxum (the remarkable spiced wine, or the paradoxical preparation, depending on how you translate paradoxum) is one of the most specific recipes in De Re Coquinaria, the collection of Roman cooking attributed to Apicius and compiled in the first century CE. The recipe calls for fifteen Roman pounds of honey to be combined with two sextarii of wine, then heated with crushed pepper, mastic (resin of the lentisk tree), bay leaf, saffron, and roasted date flesh, then clarified with charcoal and strained. The result is a concentrated, spiced, honey-sweet wine served at the beginning of the Roman meal as a gustatio (appetiser course), alongside olives, salt fish, and radishes. The cloves in the recipe are among the earliest documented uses of the spice in Mediterranean cooking. By the first century CE, cloves had travelled more than eight thousand miles from the Maluku Islands via the Indian Ocean trade routes to reach Rome's spice markets, where their price reflected that journey. Pliny the Elder complained in his Naturalis Historia that Rome was haemorrhaging gold to the east for spices that were nothing but luxuries, and Pliny was right about the gold, if wrong about the luxury. Conditum paradoxum as described by Apicius has been reconstructed by food historians and found to be genuinely delicious: a complex, aromatic fortified wine that sits somewhere between a modern mulled wine and a spiced vermouth, warm in the mouth and lingering with the flavour of spices that still feel exotic two thousand years later.

Ingredients

Wine

  • 750 ml dry white wine (a full-bodied style such as white Rioja, Viognier, or a Greek white)
  • 150 ml good runny honey

Spices

  • ½ tsp whole white peppercorns, lightly crushed
  • 6 whole cloves
  • 2 fresh bay leaves
  • ¼ tsp mastic crystals, roughly ground in a mortar (or substitute with ½ tsp ouzo or a small amount of pine resin wine/retsina)
  • 1 small pinch of saffron threads (about 10 threads), soaked in 2 tbsp warm wine for 10 minutes
  • 2 Medjool dates, stones removed and flesh chopped fine
  • ¼ tsp ground cinnamon (the Roman recipe used costus root: cinnamon is the closest modern substitute)

Method

  1. Combine the honey and half the wine in a heavy saucepan over medium-low heat. Stir until the honey is completely dissolved. Add the white peppercorns, cloves, bay leaves, mastic, dates, and cinnamon. Heat very gently until just below a simmer (do not boil) for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally.
  2. Add the saffron with its soaking wine and the remaining wine. Stir to combine. Allow to cool to room temperature, then strain through a fine sieve lined with muslin or a clean tea towel, pressing the solids to extract all liquid. Discard the solids.
  3. Transfer to a clean bottle or jar and refrigerate for at least 24 hours. The flavours will meld and deepen significantly on resting: the fresh preparation tastes good; the rested preparation tastes remarkable.
  4. Serve cold or at cellar temperature in small glasses as an aperitif, or warm gently (do not boil) and serve as a mulled wine in the Roman style. Accompany with olives, good cheese, and salted almonds.

Notes

Mastic is the resin of Pistacia lentiscus, a tree native to the Greek island of Chios. It has a distinctive piney, slightly medicinal flavour unlike anything else (it is the defining flavour of Greek loukoum and mastiha liqueur. It is available in Greek and Middle Eastern grocery stores. If completely unavailable, a small dash of retsina wine mixed in at the end approximates the resinous quality. The recipe scales easily and keeps refrigerated for 2 weeks. Use a decent-quality dry white) the honey and spices will amplify any off-notes in a cheap wine.

The Gastrographer

The Gastrographer

Mapping Culinary History

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Journey Point Map Key

Ingredient originTrade or transit route
Became a culinary stapleColonial / trade control
c. 1890 CE
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15 of 15 stops
1890 CE
1000 BCE1350 CE1605 CE1890 CE
Cloves

Cloves

Syzygium aromaticum

Spices & AromaticsMyrtaceae

🌍Origin

🌱Domestication

Cloves are the dried, unopened flower buds of Syzygium aromaticum, an evergreen tree native exclusively to the small volcanic islands of northern Maluku in what is now eastern Indonesia (specifically Ternate, Tidore, Bacan, Makian, and Moti, a cluster of islands so geographically remote that they were known to the ancient world only as a rumour, the source of a spice so valuable that wars were fought for centuries over the right to trade it. The clove tree grows only in humid tropical conditions at relatively low elevations and was cultivated on these islands for millennia before any outside civilisation knew of its existence. The harvest is the dried, unopened flower bud) picked by hand before it opens, sun-dried until it turns from green to dark brown. In this form it contains one of the highest concentrations of volatile aromatic compounds of any spice: the primary compound, eugenol, constitutes seventy to ninety percent of the clove's essential oil and is so potent that a single clove dropped into a pot of simmering water will perfume the entire kitchen within minutes. The clove's pungency is so extreme that medieval European physicians administered it neat for toothache (eugenol remains the active ingredient in dental anaesthetic to this day. In Maluku, cloves are not merely a crop but a living tradition: trees were planted at the birth of a child, their growth entwined with that of the person born under them, and the oldest known clove trees) survivors of the Dutch VOC's mass burning campaigns of the seventeenth century: are estimated to be more than three hundred years old.

Global Voyage

The clove's journey from Maluku to the world is among the most consequential stories in the history of food, trade, and empire. Archaeological evidence from the ancient Syrian city of Mari has placed cloves in the Levant by approximately 1700 BCE, when the Maluku Islands were entirely unknown to the Mediterranean world, testimony to the extraordinary reach of the prehistoric Indian Ocean trade network that passed the spice from hand to hand across thousands of miles before it could be named or its source located. By the Han Dynasty (206 BCE–220 CE), cloves had reached China, where courtiers were required to hold one in the mouth before addressing the emperor, the first documented use of a breath freshener in history. Arab traders working the monsoon winds dominated the clove trade for nearly a millennium from around 800 CE, carrying the spice to Baghdad, the Levant, and through overland routes to Europe, where a pound of cloves could buy a farm. The Portuguese arrival in the Maluku Islands in 1511–1512, following Vasco da Gama's opening of the sea route around Africa, broke the Arab monopoly and delivered direct access to the Spice Islands to Lisbon (a disruption so profitable that it financed the entire Portuguese Empire for a generation. The Dutch VOC seized Maluku from the Portuguese in 1605 and pursued the most ruthless monopoly in colonial history: burning clove trees on any island not under direct VOC control, slaughtering populations who traded independently, and maintaining prices that made cloves worth more by weight than gold in Amsterdam's markets. The monopoly was broken in 1770 by the French botanist Pierre Poivre) Peter Pepper, as English historians have sometimes rendered his name, who smuggled clove seedlings to Mauritius and Réunion, from which they eventually reached Zanzibar in 1812. With Zanzibar's volcanic soil and tropical climate, the world's centre of clove production shifted decisively from the Spice Islands to the East African coast, where it remains to this day.

🍽Modern Culinary Role

Indonesia remains the world's largest consumer of cloves, not primarily in cooking but in the kretek cigarette, a clove-and-tobacco blend smoked by a large proportion of Indonesian men, which constitutes the single largest use of cloves in the world by volume. In cuisine, cloves flavour an extraordinary range of preparations across every inhabited continent: the Christmas spice blends of northern Europe (mulled wine, Christmas pudding, speculaas, stollen, pfeffernüsse), the garam masalas and biryani of India, the baharat blends of the Arab world, the Yemeni hawaij, the Oaxacan mole negro, and the everyday cooking of the Zanzibar and Maluku islands where they originate. Zanzibar and Indonesia together produce the majority of the world's commercial clove supply. The eugenol extracted from cloves is used in dentistry, perfumery, food flavouring, and as a natural insect repellent, one of the most commercially significant essential oils derived from any spice. In Maluku, the clove remains a cultural and spiritual plant, its history inseparable from the colonial violence that made the Spice Islands the most fought-over geography in the history of the global spice trade, and its cultivation today a quiet assertion of an identity that endured.

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