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Bogotá's highland chickpea stew: garbanzos, papa criolla, mazorca and chicken slow-cooked at 2,600 metres elevation on the Sabana de Bogotá, the Spanish cocido tradition transformed by Andean altitude and indigenous crops into something entirely its own
Origin: Bogotá, Colombia
From the journey of Chickpea.
Cocido bogotano is one of the most direct surviving links between the Old and New World culinary traditions: a preparation that arrived in the Sabana de Bogotá with the Spanish colonisers of the 16th century and was transformed over two hundred years by the altitude, the climate, and the indigenous crops of the Colombian highlands into something neither fully Spanish nor fully Andean. The dish retains the Spanish cocido's essential logic (chickpeas as the protein-legume anchor, meats and root vegetables cooked together in a single pot) but replaces the Castilian ingredients with what the high plateau provides: papa criolla (a small, waxy yellow potato of extraordinary sweetness indigenous to the Colombian Andes), mazorca (fresh corn on the cob, a New World crop unknown to the original Spanish cocido), habas (fava beans, themselves introduced by the Spanish but quickly adopted), and the leaner highland chicken of Bogotá's Savanna. The result is a lighter, more vegetable-forward stew than its Castilian ancestor (the fat from chorizo and morcilla replaced by the clean flavours of the Andean crops) that is eaten as Sunday lunch in Bogotá homes from La Candelaria to Usaquén, typically preceded by ajiaco (the other great Bogotá stew) in the inexhaustible Colombian tradition of one-pot highland cooking.
Papa criolla (Solanum phureja) is a small, thin-skinned yellow potato of extraordinary sweetness and creaminess, indigenous to the Colombian Andes. It is sold frozen in Latin American grocery stores worldwide and is worth seeking out for this dish. Regular small waxy potatoes are an acceptable substitute but lack the characteristic flavour. Plantain (both green and ripe) is a common addition in the northern Colombian and coastal traditions of this dish; omit if unavailable.
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