Cloved Ham

Slow-cooked gammon studded with whole cloves, glazed with honey, English mustard and dark sugar until lacquered and caramelised

Origin: England & Northern Europe

From the journey of Cloves.

The practice of studding a cured ham with whole cloves before roasting it is one of the most evocative preparations of the English and northern European Christmas table, and one of the clearest demonstrations of how completely the clove became embedded in the seasonal food culture of cultures that had no native access to it. The practice is documented in English recipe collections from the seventeenth century onwards, following the Dutch VOC's flooding of European markets with Maluku cloves in the early 1600s, which reduced their price sufficiently that they became a common household spice rather than the exclusive preserve of the wealthy. Before that moment, the image of a ham studded with dozens of cloves would have been a display of conspicuous wealth; afterwards, it became a domestic Christmas tradition. The logic of the cloved ham is both aesthetic and culinary. The cloves, pressed into the scored fat at each diamond junction, anchor the glaze as it caramelises, provide a warm, sweet-spicy note to the lacquered surface, and perfume the meat as it roasts. The glaze (honey, dark sugar, English mustard, and a splash of cider vinegar) caramelises to a deep mahogany in the oven's heat, producing a surface that shatters at the first cut like lacquer. The meat beneath is soft, salty, and yielding from its long initial boil. The cloves are decorative, aromatic, and culinary all at once: a summary of their seven-thousand-mile journey from the Maluku Islands to an English Christmas table in a single gesture.

Ingredients

Ham

  • 2 kg bone-in or boneless gammon joint (smoked or unsmoked, as preferred)

Boiling

  • 1 onion, halved
  • 2 bay leaves
  • 1 tsp black peppercorns
  • 1 litre dry cider or apple juice (or water if preferred)

Studding

  • 30–40 whole cloves (enough to stud each diamond of the scored fat)

Glaze

  • 3 tbsp runny honey
  • 2 tbsp dark muscovado or demerara sugar
  • 2 tbsp English mustard (hot, not Dijon)
  • 1 tbsp cider vinegar or apple cider vinegar
  • ½ tsp ground cloves (optional: amplifies the clove flavour in the glaze)

Method

  1. Place the gammon in a large pot and cover with the cider or apple juice (and top up with water if needed to submerge). Add the onion halves, bay leaves, and peppercorns. Bring to the boil, skim any grey foam, reduce to a gentle simmer and cook for 20 minutes per 500g (so 1 hr 20 mins for a 2 kg joint). The gammon is done when a skewer slides through without resistance.
  2. Remove the gammon from the pot and allow to cool until handleable, about 20 minutes. Preheat the oven to 200°C / 390°F / Gas 6. Carefully peel away the skin, leaving as much of the fat layer intact as possible. Using a sharp knife, score the fat in a crosshatch diamond pattern, cutting down to (but not through) the meat.
  3. Stud a whole clove into the centre of each diamond of scored fat, pressing it in firmly.
  4. Mix together all the glaze ingredients (honey, sugar, mustard, cider vinegar, and ground cloves if using) until combined. Brush half the glaze generously all over the fat surface of the ham.
  5. Place the ham fat-side up on a rack in a roasting tin. Roast for 25–30 minutes, brushing with the remaining glaze at 10-minute intervals, until the surface is a deep mahogany and the glaze is caramelised and lacquered. Watch carefully in the final 10 minutes: the sugar can go from beautifully dark to burnt quickly.
  6. Allow to rest for 15–20 minutes before carving. Serve warm or at room temperature. The cloves in the fat are decorative and not meant to be eaten: guests should push them aside. Serve with mustard, pickles, and jacket potatoes or crusty bread.

Notes

The cloves studded into the fat are eaten around, not with the meat, they are there for aroma and aesthetics rather than direct flavour. Reminding guests of this avoids the unpleasant experience of biting into a whole clove, which is intensely aromatic and medicinal at full strength. English mustard (Colman's powder mixed to a paste, or the prepared variety) is essential for the glaze, it has a heat and sharpness that Dijon cannot replicate. The ham is excellent cold the following day in sandwiches with English mustard and chutney.

The Gastrographer

The Gastrographer

Mapping Culinary History

To explore — select an ingredient below.

Journey Point Map Key

Ingredient originTrade or transit route
Became a culinary stapleColonial / trade control
c. 1890 CE
Drag to explore journey
15 of 15 stops
1890 CE
1000 BCE1350 CE1605 CE1890 CE
Cloves

Cloves

Syzygium aromaticum

Spices & AromaticsMyrtaceae

🌍Origin

🌱Domestication

Cloves are the dried, unopened flower buds of Syzygium aromaticum, an evergreen tree native exclusively to the small volcanic islands of northern Maluku in what is now eastern Indonesia (specifically Ternate, Tidore, Bacan, Makian, and Moti, a cluster of islands so geographically remote that they were known to the ancient world only as a rumour, the source of a spice so valuable that wars were fought for centuries over the right to trade it. The clove tree grows only in humid tropical conditions at relatively low elevations and was cultivated on these islands for millennia before any outside civilisation knew of its existence. The harvest is the dried, unopened flower bud) picked by hand before it opens, sun-dried until it turns from green to dark brown. In this form it contains one of the highest concentrations of volatile aromatic compounds of any spice: the primary compound, eugenol, constitutes seventy to ninety percent of the clove's essential oil and is so potent that a single clove dropped into a pot of simmering water will perfume the entire kitchen within minutes. The clove's pungency is so extreme that medieval European physicians administered it neat for toothache (eugenol remains the active ingredient in dental anaesthetic to this day. In Maluku, cloves are not merely a crop but a living tradition: trees were planted at the birth of a child, their growth entwined with that of the person born under them, and the oldest known clove trees) survivors of the Dutch VOC's mass burning campaigns of the seventeenth century: are estimated to be more than three hundred years old.

Global Voyage

The clove's journey from Maluku to the world is among the most consequential stories in the history of food, trade, and empire. Archaeological evidence from the ancient Syrian city of Mari has placed cloves in the Levant by approximately 1700 BCE, when the Maluku Islands were entirely unknown to the Mediterranean world, testimony to the extraordinary reach of the prehistoric Indian Ocean trade network that passed the spice from hand to hand across thousands of miles before it could be named or its source located. By the Han Dynasty (206 BCE–220 CE), cloves had reached China, where courtiers were required to hold one in the mouth before addressing the emperor, the first documented use of a breath freshener in history. Arab traders working the monsoon winds dominated the clove trade for nearly a millennium from around 800 CE, carrying the spice to Baghdad, the Levant, and through overland routes to Europe, where a pound of cloves could buy a farm. The Portuguese arrival in the Maluku Islands in 1511–1512, following Vasco da Gama's opening of the sea route around Africa, broke the Arab monopoly and delivered direct access to the Spice Islands to Lisbon (a disruption so profitable that it financed the entire Portuguese Empire for a generation. The Dutch VOC seized Maluku from the Portuguese in 1605 and pursued the most ruthless monopoly in colonial history: burning clove trees on any island not under direct VOC control, slaughtering populations who traded independently, and maintaining prices that made cloves worth more by weight than gold in Amsterdam's markets. The monopoly was broken in 1770 by the French botanist Pierre Poivre) Peter Pepper, as English historians have sometimes rendered his name, who smuggled clove seedlings to Mauritius and Réunion, from which they eventually reached Zanzibar in 1812. With Zanzibar's volcanic soil and tropical climate, the world's centre of clove production shifted decisively from the Spice Islands to the East African coast, where it remains to this day.

🍽Modern Culinary Role

Indonesia remains the world's largest consumer of cloves, not primarily in cooking but in the kretek cigarette, a clove-and-tobacco blend smoked by a large proportion of Indonesian men, which constitutes the single largest use of cloves in the world by volume. In cuisine, cloves flavour an extraordinary range of preparations across every inhabited continent: the Christmas spice blends of northern Europe (mulled wine, Christmas pudding, speculaas, stollen, pfeffernüsse), the garam masalas and biryani of India, the baharat blends of the Arab world, the Yemeni hawaij, the Oaxacan mole negro, and the everyday cooking of the Zanzibar and Maluku islands where they originate. Zanzibar and Indonesia together produce the majority of the world's commercial clove supply. The eugenol extracted from cloves is used in dentistry, perfumery, food flavouring, and as a natural insect repellent, one of the most commercially significant essential oils derived from any spice. In Maluku, the clove remains a cultural and spiritual plant, its history inseparable from the colonial violence that made the Spice Islands the most fought-over geography in the history of the global spice trade, and its cultivation today a quiet assertion of an identity that endured.

© 2026 The Gastrographer. All original research, narratives, and illustrations. All rights reserved.