Iran's national dish and the pinnacle of Persian rice cooking: long-grain basmati steamed to individual-grain perfection with a saffron-golden crust (tahdig) that crackles when you turn it out, served with grilled koobideh or barg kebab and a raw egg yolk folded into the saffron rice
Chelo kebab (چلوکباب) is the national dish of Iran: the combination of chelo (perfectly steamed long-grain rice with a crispy bottom crust) and kebab (skewered and grilled meat). The Persian method of cooking rice: parboiling then steaming, producing a crisp bottom crust called tahdig (تَهدیگ, 'bottom of the pot'); is one of the world's most sophisticated rice cooking techniques, and the tahdig is the most prized part of the meal. Tahdig can be made with just rice, or with potato slices, lavash bread, or saffron-soaked rice at the bottom of the pot. The crust should be golden, crisp and intact when unmoulded; a perfect tahdig is a point of tremendous household pride in Iran. The kebab accompaniment is typically koobideh (minced lamb with grated onion, shaped on wide flat skewers and grilled over charcoal) or barg (flat pieces of marinated lamb loin). The whole dish is served with a raw egg yolk, a pat of butter, and saffron rice placed on the chelo: the diner mixes the yolk and butter into the hot rice at the table, creating an unctuous, fragrant mound before eating.
Ingredients
Chelo (Rice)
400 g aged basmati rice
Chelo
1 tsp salt (for parboiling water)
4 tbsp ghee or butter (for the pot)
0.5 tsp saffron strands, dissolved in 4 tbsp hot water
Koobideh Kebab
600 g minced lamb (20% fat, do not use lean mince)
1 medium onion, finely grated and squeezed dry of liquid
1 tsp salt
0.5 tsp black pepper
0.5 tsp turmeric
0.5 tsp baking soda (bicarbonate), for tenderness
Serving
4 egg yolks, raw (1 per person, served on top of the rice)
60 g butter, to dot over the rice
Grilled tomatoes and flat bread (lavash or sangak) to serve
Method
Wash the basmati rice in cold water until the water runs clear. Soak in cold water with 1 tablespoon of salt for at least 1 hour (up to overnight). Drain.
Bring a large pot of generously salted water to a rolling boil (taste it; it should taste like the sea). Add the soaked, drained rice. Parboil for exactly 6 minutes; the outside of each grain should be soft but the centre should still be chalky and firm. Drain through a fine colander immediately. Rinse with cold water to stop cooking.
In a heavy-bottomed non-stick pot (or a well-seasoned cast-iron pot), melt 3 tablespoons of ghee or butter over medium heat. Add 2 tablespoons of the saffron water and swirl to combine. Spread a thin layer of parboiled rice (or potato slices, or bread) evenly across the bottom of the pot; this will become your tahdig.
Mound the remaining rice in the pot over the tahdig layer, shaping it into a cone or pyramid (this creates space for steam to circulate). Poke 5–6 holes in the rice pyramid with the handle of a wooden spoon, going all the way to the bottom layer. Drizzle the remaining ghee and remaining saffron water over the top. Wrap the pot lid tightly in a clean kitchen towel (to catch the condensation), place it on the pot, and cook over medium heat for 10 minutes.
Reduce heat to the absolute lowest possible setting. Cook for 40–45 minutes. You should hear a faint sizzling sound from the bottom of the pot; this indicates the tahdig is forming.
While the rice cooks, make the koobideh: combine the minced lamb, grated onion, salt, pepper, turmeric and baking soda. Mix vigorously with your hands for 3–4 minutes until the mixture becomes sticky and paste-like. Refrigerate for 30 minutes. Divide into 4 portions and mould each around a wide flat metal skewer, pressing firmly so the meat grips the skewer. Grill over hot charcoal or under a very hot grill for 4–5 minutes per side until cooked through with charred edges.
To unmould the tahdig: remove the pot from the heat. Place the pot briefly on a wet folded towel (the cold shock helps the tahdig release). Place a large flat plate (bigger than the pot) over the pot and flip decisively; the rice should come out in a dome with the golden tahdig crust on top, intact.
Serve a mound of rice per person with a piece of tahdig. Place one koobideh kebab alongside. Make a well in the top of the rice and add a raw egg yolk and a pat of cold butter. Serve with grilled tomatoes and flat bread.
Notes
The tahdig is the most important element of the Persian meal; guests are served the choicest piece of tahdig as a mark of honour. A perfect tahdig should be golden, not brown; crisp, not hard; releasing cleanly from the pot in one piece. The non-stick pot is the modern home cook's greatest ally for tahdig: a traditional Persian household would use a well-seasoned pot that has been made for this purpose over decades. If using a stainless steel pot, be generous with the ghee at the bottom to prevent sticking.
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