Cape Malay peach atjar

The spiced vinegar-preserved peach condiment of the Cape Malay kitchen

Origin: South Africa

From the journey of Peach.

Cape Malay atjar (also spelled achar) is the most distinctive condiment of the South African kitchen: a spiced, vinegar-preserved preparation of stone fruit (most often green mango or peach) that accompanies curries, braised meats, and the bobotie-and-yellow-rice combinations at the heart of Cape Malay cooking. The word and the technique descend directly from the South and Southeast Asian achar tradition carried to the Cape Colony by enslaved Malay, Javanese, and South Indian workers brought to work for the Dutch East India Company from the mid-17th century onwards. These workers; who would eventually constitute the Cape Malay community and define much of Cape Town's culinary identity, adapted the achar technique to the abundant stone fruit of the Cape, where Jan van Riebeeck's peach orchards, planted in 1652, had already made the fruit a Cape staple by the 1660s. Cape peach atjar is typically made with firm, slightly unripe peaches: their residual acidity and firm texture better suited to the vinegar preservation than ripe fruit; and spiced with turmeric, mustard seed, dried chillies, and cumin. It is an essential accompaniment at any Cape Malay table.

Ingredients

Atjar

  • 800 g firm, slightly underripe peaches, stoned and cut into 2cm wedges
  • 1 tbsp coarse salt

Spice Base

  • 3 tbsp vegetable oil
  • 1 tbsp brown mustard seeds
  • 1 tsp ground turmeric
  • 1 tsp ground cumin
  • 2 dried red chillies, crumbled (or 1 tsp chilli flakes)
  • 3 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
  • 1 tsp fresh ginger, finely grated

Pickling

  • 150 ml white wine vinegar or apple cider vinegar
  • 60 g caster sugar

Method

  1. Toss the peach wedges with the coarse salt in a colander. Leave for 30 minutes to draw out moisture, then rinse well under cold water and pat dry.
  2. Heat the oil in a wide heavy pan over medium heat. Add the mustard seeds and wait until they begin to pop; about 30 seconds. Add the turmeric, cumin, and dried chillies and fry for 30 seconds, stirring.
  3. Add the garlic and ginger and fry for another minute until fragrant. Do not let the garlic brown.
  4. Add the vinegar and sugar to the pan. Stir to dissolve the sugar and bring to a simmer.
  5. Add the dried peach wedges and toss gently to coat in the spiced pickling liquid. Simmer for 5–7 minutes until the peaches have softened slightly at the edges but still have significant bite.
  6. Pack into a clean jar. Pour over any remaining pickling liquid; the peaches should be just covered. Allow to cool completely before sealing. Refrigerate for at least 24 hours before serving.
  7. Serve alongside Cape Malay curry, bobotie, braised lamb, or any grilled meat. Particularly good with fatty cuts where the vinegar and spice cut the richness.

Notes

Cape peach atjar keeps refrigerated for up to 3 weeks. The flavour improves significantly after 2–3 days as the spices infuse. Green mango can be substituted for a more traditional achar profile. Some Cape Malay recipes include a small piece of cinnamon stick and a few cardamom pods; both are historically appropriate.

The Gastrographer

The Gastrographer

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Ingredient originTrade or transit route
Became a culinary stapleColonial / trade control
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