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A rustic free-form galette of cold, flaky butter pastry folded loosely around wedges of ripe Santa Rosa plum that bake down to crimson jam, the exposed crust brushed with cream, scattered with coarse sugar, and baked to a deep, blistered gold
Origin: California, United States
From the journey of Plum.
The fresh-plum dessert of the New World owes its existence to one man and one fruit. The plum at the heart of this galette is the Santa Rosa, a Japanese plum (Prunus salicina) bred by Luther Burbank at his experimental farm in Santa Rosa, California, and introduced in 1906. Burbank, the most celebrated plant breeder of his age, worked extensively with the East Asian plum that had been carried to California by way of Japan, crossing it with American and European stock to produce a fruit of unusual size, beauty, and balance: a deep crimson-purple skin, amber flesh streaked red at the stone, and a sweet-tart flavour that made it for decades the most widely grown plum in the world. Unlike the European plum (Prunus domestica) of Lorraine and Gascony, which lends itself to drying and long keeping, the Japanese plum is a juicy, perishable dessert fruit, eaten ripe and fresh, and its arrival reshaped what a plum dessert could be in the abundant orchards of the American West. The galette is the natural vessel for it: a French country form, free of any tin, in which a single round of flaky pastry is rolled out, heaped with sliced fruit, and folded back over itself in rough pleats, leaving the centre open to the heat. The Santa Rosa, sliced into wedges and tossed with a little sugar, collapses into a jammy, scarlet pool as it bakes, whilst the cream-brushed, sugar-crusted rim turns flaky and burnished. It is a homely, forgiving dessert, born where the orchard met the home kitchen, and it celebrates the plum in its freshest and most ephemeral state.
The Santa Rosa is the classic choice for its colour and balance, but any ripe, juicy Japanese plum (Prunus salicina and its hybrids) will make a fine galette: look for fruit that yields to gentle pressure and smells fragrant at the stem. Sweeter, less acidic varieties may need a little less sugar, whilst very tart plums may need a touch more, so taste the raw fruit and adjust. The pastry can be made a day ahead and kept chilled, or frozen, which suits the spontaneity of high plum season. Should the juices run despite the cornflour, that is simply the nature of the fresh plum and the charm of the free-form tart; the parchment catches them, and the galette is no worse for a little caramelised syrup at its edge.
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