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Portugal's golden orange cake: moist with olive oil and whole orange pulp, scented with zest, glazed with orange syrup until it shines: the most loved cake in every Portuguese pastelaria, humble and luminous
Origin: Portugal
From the journey of Orange.
Bolo de laranja is arguably the most beloved everyday cake in Portugal; present in every pastelaria (pastry café), every home kitchen, and every family table. Its genius lies in its simplicity: it uses the whole orange; juice and zest; and olive oil rather than butter, producing a cake of extraordinary moistness, with a crumb that is open and fragrant rather than dense or dry. The use of olive oil (azeite) in baking is characteristically Portuguese and marks the cake as distinctly Mediterranean rather than Northern European. Portugal's relationship with the orange is ancient and personal: the Portuguese were the first Europeans to bring the sweet orange back from trading voyages to India and China in the 15th century, and the word for orange in Greek (portokáli), Romanian (portocală), and Albanian (portokall) still reflects this Portuguese origin. The bolo de laranja in its Azorean, Algarve, and Lisbon variants is the fruit of this five-century relationship: a preparation that honours the orange without complicating it.
The Azorean variant of bolo de laranja is made with laranjas do Pico or laranjas de São Miguel: the extraordinary oranges grown in the volcanic soil of the Azores islands, which are among the world's finest oranges: smaller than mainland varieties, with an intensely perfumed peel and a complex, slightly floral juice. If Azorean oranges are unavailable (which they usually are outside Portugal), use the most fragrant, thin-skinned oranges you can find; the flavour of the finished cake is entirely dependent on the quality and fragrance of the orange.
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