Birria

The great celebration stew of Jalisco: goat or beef marinated in a deep adobo of dried chillies, Mexican oregano, cumin, and spices, then braised for hours until meltingly tender, served in its rich consommé with onion, coriander, lime, and warm tortillas

Origin: Jalisco, Mexico

From the journey of Oregano.

Birria is the great festive stew of the western Mexican state of Jalisco, the food of weddings, baptisms, and holidays, and lately, in its taco form, a global sensation. Its soul is the adobo: a paste of dried chillies (guajillo, ancho, and the fiery chile de árbol) blended with garlic, cumin, cloves, cinnamon, and a generous measure of Mexican oregano, in which the meat (traditionally goat, often now beef) is marinated and then braised for hours until it falls apart. Mexican oregano (Lippia graveolens) is essential and unmistakable here: its deep, citrus-resin pungency is built precisely for this kind of long-simmered chile sauce, where the softer Mediterranean herb would be lost. The meat is served in its own rich, red consommé, or shredded into tortillas griddled in the fat to make the now-famous quesabirria, with the consommé alongside for dipping.

Ingredients

Meat

  • 1.5 kg beef chuck or short rib (or goat shoulder), in large pieces

Adobo

  • 4 dried guajillo chillies, stemmed and deseeded
  • 3 dried ancho chillies, stemmed and deseeded
  • 2 dried chiles de árbol (adjust for heat)
  • 1 tbsp Mexican oregano
  • 1 tsp cumin seeds
  • 4 whole cloves
  • 1 stick cinnamon (5cm)
  • 5 cloves garlic
  • 1 onion, quartered
  • 3 tbsp cider or white vinegar

Braise

  • 2 bay leaves
  • 1.2 litres beef stock or water
  • 2 tsp salt, plus more to taste

To serve

  • 1 white onion, finely chopped, with coriander and lime wedges, to serve

Method

  1. Toast the dried chillies in a dry pan for 30 to 60 seconds until fragrant (do not burn them), then soak them in hot water for 20 minutes until soft.
  2. Toast the cumin, cloves, and cinnamon briefly, then blend with the drained soaked chillies, the Mexican oregano, garlic, quartered onion, vinegar, and a cup of the soaking water to a smooth adobo paste.
  3. Rub the adobo all over the meat and marinate for at least 2 hours, or overnight.
  4. Put the meat and all its adobo into a heavy pot with the bay leaves, stock, and salt. Bring to a simmer, cover, and braise gently (on the hob or in a 160°C/140°C fan oven) for about 3 hours, until the meat is falling apart.
  5. Lift out the meat and shred it, discarding any bones and the bay leaves. Skim some of the bright red fat from the top of the consommé (reserve it for frying tacos). Taste the consommé and adjust the salt.
  6. Serve the shredded meat in bowls with the consommé ladled over, topped with chopped onion, coriander, and a squeeze of lime, with warm tortillas alongside; or make quesabirria by filling tortillas with meat and cheese, griddling in the reserved fat, and serving the consommé for dipping.

Notes

Goat (birria de chivo) is the original meat in Jalisco; beef (birria de res) is now equally common and easier to find. The blend of guajillo and ancho gives colour and depth; the chiles de árbol bring the heat, so adjust to taste. Mexican oregano (Lippia graveolens) is genuinely different from Mediterranean oregano and is the authentic, defining herb; it is worth buying for this and for all your Mexican cooking.

The Gastrographer

The Gastrographer

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