Ayam Pongteh

Nyonya Peranakan braised chicken with fermented soybean paste, potatoes and whole cloves in a dark, sweet-savoury gravy

Origin: Malacca & Penang, Malaysia

From the journey of Cloves.

Ayam pongteh is a signature dish of the Peranakan, the community of Chinese immigrants who settled along the Malacca Straits from the fifteenth century onwards and developed a hybrid culture and cuisine that fuses the cooking traditions of southern China with the spices, aromatics, and ingredients of Malay and Indonesian cooking. The Peranakan are also called Nyonya-Baba: the women (Nyonya) known for a cuisine of extraordinary complexity and labour, in which the preparation of a single dish might require a morning spent grinding spice pastes in a stone mortar. Ayam pongteh, pongteh is the Hokkien pronunciation of the dish name, is one of the most important Nyonya dishes: braised chicken (ayam) with fermented soybean paste (taucheo, the Hokkien version of the Chinese doubanjiang), potatoes, and, most crucially for the clove story, a generous addition of whole cloves that would not appear in any Chinese dish of this type. The cloves come from the Maluku Islands via the Malacca Straits trade routes that brought the Spice Islands' output to the great entrepot of Malacca, the most important spice market in the world from the thirteenth to the sixteenth century. The Peranakan cook who added whole cloves to her grandmother's Chinese braised chicken was not innovating; she was expressing the most natural consequence of living on the spice route. The cloves give ayam pongteh its warmth, its depth, and a faint sweetness that the fermented soybean paste would not otherwise possess.

Ingredients

Chicken

  • 1.2 kg whole chicken, cut into 8 pieces (or 6 bone-in thighs)

Base

  • 3 tbsp neutral oil
  • 8 cloves garlic, roughly chopped
  • 8 shallots, peeled and roughly sliced

Sauce

  • 3 tbsp taucheo (Malaysian/Hokkien fermented soybean paste), or substitute with white miso paste
  • 2 tbsp dark soy sauce
  • 1 tbsp light soy sauce
  • 1 tbsp palm sugar or dark brown sugar
  • 300 ml water or light chicken stock

Whole Spices

  • 6 whole cloves
  • 1 cinnamon stick

Vegetables

  • 3 medium waxy potatoes (such as Charlotte), peeled and quartered

To Serve

  • steamed jasmine rice and sliced red chilli, to serve

Method

  1. Heat the oil in a wok or wide heavy-based pan over medium-high heat. Add the garlic and shallots and fry, stirring, for 4–5 minutes until soft and beginning to golden.
  2. Add the taucheo (fermented soybean paste) and fry for 2 minutes, stirring constantly, until it darkens slightly and becomes very fragrant: it should smell nutty, savoury, and deeply umami.
  3. Add the chicken pieces and turn to coat in the paste. Fry for 5 minutes, turning occasionally, until the chicken is lightly coloured on all sides.
  4. Add the dark soy, light soy, palm sugar, whole cloves, cinnamon stick, and water or stock. Stir well and bring to a gentle simmer. Add the potatoes. Cover and braise over low heat for 35–40 minutes until the chicken is tender and the potatoes are cooked through, stirring occasionally.
  5. Taste the sauce: it should be savoury, slightly sweet, dark, and gently spiced with the warmth of the cloves and cinnamon. Adjust sugar or soy as needed. Remove and discard the whole cloves and cinnamon stick. Serve over steamed jasmine rice with sliced red chilli.

Notes

Taucheo (fermented soybean paste, Hokkien style) has a milder, saltier, slightly funkier character than Chinese doubanjiang. It is available in Malaysian, Singaporean, and Southeast Asian grocery stores. Japanese white miso is a reasonable substitute in terms of fermented soybean flavour, though it lacks the characteristic Hokkien character. Palm sugar can be replaced with dark brown sugar or jaggery. The dish is traditionally prepared without any chilli: the heat comes from the table condiment of sliced fresh chilli in light soy sauce served alongside.

The Gastrographer

The Gastrographer

Mapping Culinary History

To explore — select an ingredient below.

Journey Point Map Key

Ingredient originTrade or transit route
Became a culinary stapleColonial / trade control
c. 1890 CE
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15 of 15 stops
1890 CE
1000 BCE1350 CE1605 CE1890 CE
Cloves

Cloves

Syzygium aromaticum

Spices & AromaticsMyrtaceae

🌍Origin

🌱Domestication

Cloves are the dried, unopened flower buds of Syzygium aromaticum, an evergreen tree native exclusively to the small volcanic islands of northern Maluku in what is now eastern Indonesia (specifically Ternate, Tidore, Bacan, Makian, and Moti, a cluster of islands so geographically remote that they were known to the ancient world only as a rumour, the source of a spice so valuable that wars were fought for centuries over the right to trade it. The clove tree grows only in humid tropical conditions at relatively low elevations and was cultivated on these islands for millennia before any outside civilisation knew of its existence. The harvest is the dried, unopened flower bud) picked by hand before it opens, sun-dried until it turns from green to dark brown. In this form it contains one of the highest concentrations of volatile aromatic compounds of any spice: the primary compound, eugenol, constitutes seventy to ninety percent of the clove's essential oil and is so potent that a single clove dropped into a pot of simmering water will perfume the entire kitchen within minutes. The clove's pungency is so extreme that medieval European physicians administered it neat for toothache (eugenol remains the active ingredient in dental anaesthetic to this day. In Maluku, cloves are not merely a crop but a living tradition: trees were planted at the birth of a child, their growth entwined with that of the person born under them, and the oldest known clove trees) survivors of the Dutch VOC's mass burning campaigns of the seventeenth century: are estimated to be more than three hundred years old.

Global Voyage

The clove's journey from Maluku to the world is among the most consequential stories in the history of food, trade, and empire. Archaeological evidence from the ancient Syrian city of Mari has placed cloves in the Levant by approximately 1700 BCE, when the Maluku Islands were entirely unknown to the Mediterranean world, testimony to the extraordinary reach of the prehistoric Indian Ocean trade network that passed the spice from hand to hand across thousands of miles before it could be named or its source located. By the Han Dynasty (206 BCE–220 CE), cloves had reached China, where courtiers were required to hold one in the mouth before addressing the emperor, the first documented use of a breath freshener in history. Arab traders working the monsoon winds dominated the clove trade for nearly a millennium from around 800 CE, carrying the spice to Baghdad, the Levant, and through overland routes to Europe, where a pound of cloves could buy a farm. The Portuguese arrival in the Maluku Islands in 1511–1512, following Vasco da Gama's opening of the sea route around Africa, broke the Arab monopoly and delivered direct access to the Spice Islands to Lisbon (a disruption so profitable that it financed the entire Portuguese Empire for a generation. The Dutch VOC seized Maluku from the Portuguese in 1605 and pursued the most ruthless monopoly in colonial history: burning clove trees on any island not under direct VOC control, slaughtering populations who traded independently, and maintaining prices that made cloves worth more by weight than gold in Amsterdam's markets. The monopoly was broken in 1770 by the French botanist Pierre Poivre) Peter Pepper, as English historians have sometimes rendered his name, who smuggled clove seedlings to Mauritius and Réunion, from which they eventually reached Zanzibar in 1812. With Zanzibar's volcanic soil and tropical climate, the world's centre of clove production shifted decisively from the Spice Islands to the East African coast, where it remains to this day.

🍽Modern Culinary Role

Indonesia remains the world's largest consumer of cloves, not primarily in cooking but in the kretek cigarette, a clove-and-tobacco blend smoked by a large proportion of Indonesian men, which constitutes the single largest use of cloves in the world by volume. In cuisine, cloves flavour an extraordinary range of preparations across every inhabited continent: the Christmas spice blends of northern Europe (mulled wine, Christmas pudding, speculaas, stollen, pfeffernüsse), the garam masalas and biryani of India, the baharat blends of the Arab world, the Yemeni hawaij, the Oaxacan mole negro, and the everyday cooking of the Zanzibar and Maluku islands where they originate. Zanzibar and Indonesia together produce the majority of the world's commercial clove supply. The eugenol extracted from cloves is used in dentistry, perfumery, food flavouring, and as a natural insect repellent, one of the most commercially significant essential oils derived from any spice. In Maluku, the clove remains a cultural and spiritual plant, its history inseparable from the colonial violence that made the Spice Islands the most fought-over geography in the history of the global spice trade, and its cultivation today a quiet assertion of an identity that endured.

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