When the Dutch VOC established pepper plantations across Lampung, Sumatra in the early 1600s, black pepper became not just an export commodity but a defining flavour of Indonesian home cooking. Ayam merica (literally 'pepper chicken') is found across Sumatra and Sulawesi, where freshly ground black pepper is used in generous quantities alongside a fragrant spice paste of shallots, garlic, galangal, and lemongrass. Unlike the chilli heat that dominates much of Indonesian cuisine, ayam merica's warmth is entirely from pepper: assertive, aromatic, and clean. The dish is a living record of the spice trade's most transformative era.
Ingredients
Chicken
1 kg chicken pieces, bone-in (thighs and drumsticks)
2 tbsp coarsely ground black pepper
1 tsp fine salt
Spice paste (bumbu)
8 shallots, peeled
5 garlic cloves
3 cm fresh galangal, peeled and sliced
2 lemongrass stalks, white part only, sliced
1 tsp ground coriander
To cook
3 tbsp coconut oil or neutral oil
2 bay leaves (salam leaves if available)
200 ml coconut milk
1 tbsp sweet soy sauce (kecap manis)
1 tbsp freshly ground black pepper, extra for finishing
Method
Score each chicken piece two or three times to the bone with a sharp knife. Rub all over with 2 tbsp coarsely ground black pepper and 1 tsp salt. Set aside to marinate for at least 15 minutes.
Make the spice paste: blend shallots, garlic, galangal, lemongrass, and ground coriander together in a small food processor or pound in a mortar until a smooth paste forms. Add a splash of water if needed to help the blade.
Heat coconut oil in a wide, heavy pan or wok over medium-high heat. Sear the chicken pieces skin-side down for 4–5 minutes until golden brown. Flip and sear the other side for 3 minutes. Remove and set aside.
Reduce heat to medium. Add the spice paste to the same pan and fry, stirring constantly, for 5–6 minutes until it turns deep golden and fragrant and the raw smell of shallots has gone.
Return the chicken to the pan. Add bay leaves, coconut milk, kecap manis, and the extra tablespoon of black pepper. Stir to coat the chicken thoroughly.
Bring to a gentle simmer, cover loosely, and cook for 25 minutes, turning the chicken once halfway through, until the chicken is cooked through and the sauce has thickened and reduced around the pieces.
Remove the lid and increase heat to medium-high for the final 5 minutes, letting the sauce reduce further until it clings to the chicken in a glossy, dark coat.
Taste and adjust seasoning. Serve with steamed white rice and a side of pickled cucumber (acar) to balance the pepper's heat.
Notes
For a more intense pepper flavour, toast the black peppercorns in a dry pan for 1–2 minutes before grinding. White pepper can replace half the black pepper for a subtler, more floral heat common in Javanese versions of this dish. Salam leaves (Indonesian bay leaves) have a more delicate, slightly citrusy flavour than European bay: use them if your Asian grocer stocks them.
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