Appeltaart

The deep-dish comfort of the Low Countries

Origin: Netherlands

From the journey of Cinnamon.

Appeltaart (the Dutch deep-dish apple tart) is one of the most eaten home-baked cakes in the Netherlands, and cinnamon is its defining spice. The recipe tradition stretches back to the 17th-century Dutch Golden Age, when the VOC's control of the cinnamon trade made Ceylon cinnamon a household spice in Dutch kitchens in a way it was not yet in other European countries. Dutch appeltaart is structurally different from English apple pie or French tarte tatin: it is tall, latticed, densely filled, and always heavily cinnamon-scented, making it one of the clearest European expressions of the relationship between Dutch colonial power and culinary tradition.

Ingredients

Pastry

  • 300 g plain flour
  • 200 g cold butter, cubed
  • 100 g caster sugar
  • 1 egg
  • 0.25 tsp fine salt
  • 1 tsp vanilla extract

Filling

  • 1200 g cooking apples (Bramley or Granny Smith), peeled, cored and sliced
  • 80 g light brown sugar
  • 2 tsp ground cinnamon
  • 1 tbsp lemon juice
  • 80 g raisins, soaked in hot water for 15 minutes and drained

Assembly

  • 2 tbsp fine dried breadcrumbs

Glaze

  • 1 egg yolk, beaten (for glaze)

Method

  1. Make the pastry: rub the cold butter into the flour with your fingertips until the mixture resembles coarse breadcrumbs. Stir in the caster sugar, salt and vanilla extract.
  2. Add the egg and mix with a fork, then bring together with your hands into a soft, smooth dough. If it is too dry, add a teaspoon of cold water. Flatten into a disc, wrap and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes.
  3. Prepare the filling: toss the sliced apples with the light brown sugar, ground cinnamon, lemon juice and drained raisins. Set aside.
  4. Preheat the oven to 175°C (155°C fan). Grease a deep 23cm springform cake tin well with butter.
  5. Remove the pastry from the fridge. Cut off approximately one-third and return it to the fridge (for the lattice). On a lightly floured surface, roll the remaining two-thirds into a circle large enough to line the base and sides of the tin (approximately 38cm diameter). Carefully lift it into the tin and press into the base and up the sides, patching any tears.
  6. Scatter the dried breadcrumbs over the pastry base: this prevents the base from becoming soggy.
  7. Pile the apple filling into the tin, mounding it generously in the centre as it will compress during baking.
  8. Roll the reserved pastry into a rectangle and cut into 1.5cm-wide strips. Lay the strips over the top of the tart in a lattice pattern, pressing the ends firmly onto the pastry edges. Trim any excess.
  9. Brush the lattice and pastry edges generously with beaten egg yolk.
  10. Bake for 55-65 minutes until the pastry is a deep golden brown and the apple filling is tender and bubbling. Check after 40 minutes and cover the lattice loosely with foil if it is browning too quickly.
  11. Allow to cool in the tin for at least 30 minutes before releasing the springform sides. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Notes

Appeltaart is traditionally served with a generous dollop of slagroom (lightly whipped cream) rather than ice cream. It keeps well at room temperature for 2 days, or refrigerated for up to 5 days.

The Gastrographer

The Gastrographer

Mapping Culinary History

To explore — select an ingredient below.

Journey Point Map Key

Ingredient originTrade or transit route
Became a culinary stapleColonial / trade control
c. 1890 CE
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21 of 21 stops
1890 CE
3000 BCE100 CE1640 CE1890 CE
Cinnamon

Cinnamon

Cinnamomum spp.

Spices & AromaticsTree Bark

🌍Origin

Sri Lanka, South India and Southeast Asia. — c. 3000 BCE

🌱Domestication

Three distinct species of Cinnamomum shaped the global cinnamon story, each with its own origin, character, and trade corridor. Cinnamomum verum (true cinnamon) is native to Sri Lanka’s hill country, where Salagama caste peelers developed the delicate art of stripping, drying, and rolling the inner bark into thin, layered quills: a technique unchanged for millennia. Sri Lanka produces 80–90% of the world’s C. verum to this day, and it remains the benchmark for quality. Cinnamomum malabatrum (Malabar cinnamon) is native to the Western Ghats of Kerala: here it is not the bark but the aromatic leaf that is traded, known to the ancient world as malabathrum and recorded in the 1st-century Periplus of the Erythraean Sea as a prized Malabar coast export. Cinnamomum burmannii (Indonesian or Korintje cinnamon) is native to the forested highlands of Sumatra and is the most widely sold cinnamon in the world today: bolder, more pungent, and less complex than C. verum, it is the cinnamon of American supermarkets, most Southeast Asian cooking, and the majority of commercially produced cinnamon products globally. Cinnamomum cassia (Chinese cassia) has a fourth independent origin in the forests of Guangxi and Fujian, traded westward along the Silk Road since at least 2700 BCE. The spice on any given kitchen shelf is one of these four, and they are not interchangeable.

Global Voyage

One of the most prized ancient spices, cinnamon’s source was deliberately obscured by Arab and Phoenician traders for millennia (a disinformation campaign so effective that Roman authors believed it was harvested from bird nests or guarded by giant serpents in an unnamed southern land. The quest to reach and control the cinnamon supply drove some of the most consequential chapters in European colonial history: the Portuguese seized Sri Lanka in 1518, the Dutch VOC ousted them in 1638 and established the brutal plantation system that devastated the island’s forests, before the British took control in 1796. The ancient Roman name for Sri Lanka was Serendib) the origin of the English word serendipity (because any trader who stumbled upon it was set for life. A parallel story unfolded in China, where Cinnamomum cassia had been independently cultivated and traded westward along the Silk Road since at least 2700 BCE, reaching Persia and Arabia through an entirely separate corridor long before Sri Lankan C. verum arrived. A third thread ran through the Indonesian archipelago: Cinnamomum burmannii) native to the forests of West Sumatra, cultivated by the Minangkabau people of the Padang Highlands (entered the spice trade through the Srivijaya Empire and the maritime networks of the Javanese archipelago. Bolder and more pungent than the Sri Lankan original, it is this variety that would eventually become the dominant cinnamon of the modern era, filling American supermarket jars and Southeast Asian kitchens alike. And a fourth corridor ran from Kerala’s Western Ghats, where Cinnamomum malabatrum was traded as malabathrum) an aromatic leaf, not a bark (through the Indian Ocean networks of the 1st century CE. From the Americas to Scandinavia, cinnamon became woven into the culinary identity of nearly every civilisation it reached) but its story is not one origin, one species, or one people: it is three or four distinct trees from different corners of Asia, converging on the same spice rack.

🍽Modern Culinary Role

One of the world’s most universally used spices, but which cinnamon depends entirely on where you are. Cinnamomum verum (true or Ceylon cinnamon), produced almost entirely in Sri Lanka, commands premium prices for its delicate, floral, paper-thin quills; it is the cinnamon of European fine baking, Mexican canela, and the historically authentic spice trade. Cinnamomum burmannii (Indonesian or Korintje cinnamon), produced primarily in Sumatra, supplies the bulk of the American market and most commercial ground cinnamon globally, its thick, dark bark is more pungent and astringent than C. verum and contains higher levels of coumarin. Cinnamomum cassia (Chinese cassia) and its close relative Cinnamomum loureiroi (Vietnamese cassia) dominate the East and Southeast Asian markets, their bold, sharp flavour essential to Chinese five-spice and Vietnamese phở. Cinnamomum malabatrum (Malabar leaf cinnamon) survives as a niche spice in Kerala and Tamil Nadu, its aromatic leaves used in rice cooking and folk medicine. What is sold simply as ‘cinnamon’ in most of the world is C. burmannii; what is sold as ‘true’ or ‘Ceylon’ cinnamon is C. verum. The distinction matters: flavour, coumarin content, and price differ substantially.

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